Ron W.
Yelp
Thread your way through one small alley after another until you realize Google Map was just fun'in with you. The place is right off the main drag.
Once you find it (hard to miss with it's large sign in English), enter and inhale the comforting aroma of the ultimate Baby Shower food...Gyoza.
Is this spot touristy? You bet it is. It's filled with them. Only so much Oden you can eat at the 7-11's. Are the Gyoza good here? Great grilled Gyoza, beat me with a frozen Sashimi, they are. Real good.
The Decor: Brown. It's as if a tornado picked up a West Texas Diner and plunked it down in Kyoto. Stools disappearing under ample cheeks at the counter, a fry/grill station, a few small tables, and that's it. No frills, no thrills...until your first platter of 16 Black Pig Gyoza arrives to keep your icy Asahi Draft company.
The little dumplings themselves are the size of a petite woman's pinkie and they are as delicate as flower petals, pan fried crisp on one side and soft everywhere else.
The server will guide you to another 16 Black Pig Gyoza. Surrender and let her. These come in two neat rows which you can easily tear apart like Forever Stamps.
Three tiny Salads come with your Combo Platter. A small cup of Pickled Sprouts, a small bowl Pickled Persian Cucumbers with a few Chili rings on board providing a third trimester baby kick of heat. Finally, you'll get some raw Cabbage leaves with a scant splatter of Sesame Dressing. All tasty, all important as your vegetables keep you on task and target next morning and man can't live on Gyoza alone. Okay, yes you can live off these Gyoza. You really could, at least until they have to crane you out of your Gion Condo through the roof.
After you demolish the first round, it's time to get serious. Have the 10 piece Gyoza Combo. Yup...more Black Pig, also some Spring Onion, Chicken, and Shrimp Gyoza (my personal favorite as each little jewel was crammed with chunks of fresh sweet Shrimp as opposed to the others that were stuffed with ground meats). Finally, there was a rather benign Kare (Japanese Curry). The Curry Gyoza required a bolder hand in the kitchen. These were merely ground pork with a faint sprinkle of Curry Powder.
No matter, you can whup up a little bowl of customized Sauce with the five condiments within arm's reach. Garlic Red Miso, Thick White Miso, Black Vinegar, Soy, and Chili Oil. It's like you're back in Chem 101 and this time you're actually gonna pass it. Go ahead and play with it till you get it just right for you.
After your second plate of Shrimp Gyoza, it's time to branch out.
The Gyoza Wings were essentially Chicken Wings, boned and stuffed with, let's say it together, ground Black Pig and minced Onions before taking a few laps in the deep fryer. They were perfect for that going all feral moment where you gnaw every speck of meat from the wing joint and then daintily pinch off the crispy skin from the Wing tip with your front teeth.
Finally, the plate of Karaage (Japanese Fried Chicken pieces) buried under a hill of grated Daikon and shredded Green Onion required only a squeeze of Lemon and a dusting of Salt to make it memorable. Of course I can't ever recall meeting a piece of fried chicken that didn't sing to me.
As stuffed as a Gyoza, I stood up (with help), held up my crossed fingers, bowed as low as my full belly would allow, "Gochisoosama", I said. The server and I began bowing like a pair of Dunking Ducks until I waddled out into the frigid air, satiated and happy.
Chao Chao Gyoza, ah yeah, so good.