Morlene C.
Yelp
This entire road is dotted with ryokans facing the gorgeous cliffs of Mt. Hakone, which was partially obscured from rain clouds most of the time we were here. Still, it made for a moody and scenic backdrop for my many dips in the private onsen in our room's balcony, which kind of alone made for an excellent experience at Ten Yu. But what really sealed it for me was the lush, outdoor oasis of the outdoor onsen that transported me into a fairytale forest that I meditated in for a long while.
The breakfast and dinner buffet left a lot to be desired for what is considered a high end ryokan. The food had mostly been sitting out for quite a while, and they serve exactly the same options everyday. The seafood and meat is of low quality. It's totally serviceable and there's a lot of variety within each spread, but it's saying a lot if I turn down unlimited crab legs. After a third time having the same mediocre meal I was ready to eat somewhere offsite and was glad it was time to check out after day 3.
I would have maybe rated this hotel lower were it not for this outdoor onsen. I was perfectly satisfied with the private bath we had on our balcony, which I enjoyed 4-5 times in our short 3 day stay, but the outdoor public one was something else. At first, entering the private onsen felt underwhelming, seeing just two large hot baths at the same temperate, one bubbling and one with still water. I liked going back and forth between cold plunge and hot bath to sauna. At 20 degrees celsius and in that hot room it can hardly be considered a cold plunge, I guess compared to the 40 degree hot bath it was. I happened to see someone disappear behind a door labeled outdoor bath, and I went to inspect, not expecting much.
Instead I found a large, lush hot spring completely covered by backlit greenery. It's gender segregated and the 5th floor one faces their beautiful waterfall. At first my partner and I expected to get bored being separated and planned to meet up half an hour later but both ended up enjoying our separate garden oases for well over an hour. We both took it as an opportunity to meditate. Both spaces were largely empty, so it's quite conducive to a meditative experience.
The staff was really warm and kind throughout, and I appreciate little touches they have, like unlimited coins for the ice cream machine, different iced teas on offer in the lobby, and little rubber bands to hold up the sleeves of the kimonos they provide guests to wear while wandering the space.
The rooms and common areas were quite clean and the lobby is beautiful. This was an upgrade from the ryokan I stayed in in Kyoto during my last Japan trip, and I really could do worse than this luxury ryokan.