Folker W.
Yelp
Finally, I had a chance to go to Helvetia. For someone that's partly living in Zurich and partly in Istanbul, it may seem to be a must, but somehow I never went. Maybe because it is regarded as such a cool and in place to go, because it is one of those places that about five million people call an insider's tip.
We sat right in front of the big window, looking out at the little street, while having a big plate of mixed Anatolian food. They don't have a menu - as much as it is a cool place to go, they serve the food the way they do in this part of the world: you walk up to the counter and tell them what you want. Not easy sometimes if you don't speak Turkish, because you sort of point at stuff and ask, and sometimes they will take your pointing at stuff as ordering the stuff you are pointing at - you can't expect the waitress to speak your language. So look carfully, choose clearly - even if all the stuff you will be served is going to taste just great.
Our plate had mixed hot and cold food - fasulye (white beans), chicken in a curryish kind of sauce, some köfte, bulgur, taboule, etsiz çiğ köfte. Everything really tasty, really good food. All of this and two cups of tea for less than 15 TL - for such a way cool spot, this is more than reasonable, and it adds to the nice impression that as in as it may be, this is a very down to earth place.
And it is really fun to sit there and look at all the tourists pointing at the place. Especially the ones that speak German, reading the old writing on the wall next to the entrance, offering "Gabelfrühstück" (fork breakfast) - a word that hasn't been used in the German language for at least a half dozen decades. What's even more fun is watching the tourists look at the menu of the House Cafe on the other side of the street, somehow feeling that this is probably not such an authentic choice to have a meal, yet feeling safer with the continental food selections they offer. Sometimes you will have one person in the group that knows that they would have much more of an Istanbul experience if they went to Helvetia, pointing at the place from over there, with the more fearful travel companions wondering what they might expect from such a strange small place.
And you are wondering if you should tell them to be courageous travelers and come in - or just keep them clueless so you can keep sitting there, looking out at them, and other clueless tourists. You know what's cool, they don't. Ridiculous? Yeah. But true too.
Lovely place.