Mark K.
Yelp
I've been to Nashville several times, including trips with each of my three kids individually on separate occasions (college visits, tagging along during conferences, etc.). It's the only place that has that distinction in our family history. The one place to which I have taken each of them without fail while there was the Hermitage. On our recent visit with my wife and grandson (who happens to be named Jackson, for no reason related to Andrew), our venture to the Hermitage was the fourth visit I have made to this enjoyable site.
A visit to the Hermitage can be dissected into five parts. The museum provides a great overview of the salient facts concerning Jackson and his times. The grounds facilitate an enjoyable fresh-air experience. The servant quarters provide insight into the slaveholding culture of the day and the microcosm of Jackson's participation in that institution. The gardens provide a more aesthetic aspect to the adventure. Within the gardens is also the family cemetery, providing additional pieces to the puzzle of Jackson's family history. Finally and foremost is the main house, which is unquestionably the highlight of a visit to the Hermitage. It's all extraordinarily interesting.
The museum itself is at the point of entry. It gives you the chance to establish a working knowledge about Jackson, his life, his family and those associated with him. What you see here will broaden and deepen the learning experience when touring the grounds. There was clearly a lot to admire about the man, but also a lot of things that cast him in a negative light. How you judge him, assuming you feel compelled to do so, depends on the weight you place on each of his respective actions and achievements, both positive and negative.
The grounds are amazing! Setting aside the historical significance of the place for a moment, if you are there on a nice weather day, just sitting outside and/or strolling the grounds can be an enjoyable experience by itself. I have been fortunate that each of my times here have been during beautiful autumn or winter weather, with crisp but moderate temperatures and copious sunshine. While such things are unfortunately out of our control, I can only say that the lovely weather has added greatly to my enjoyment during each visit.
The on-site historical re-creation is superb. The workers are "in the day" (i.e., they don't pretend to be living in the past while you observe and interact with them, such as they do at Plimouth Plantation, for example). But they are in period costume. On our last visit, we were able to observe the re-enactment of a duel. Learning about the ritual of dueling (and it truly was a ritual) provided a fascinating window through which to view an aspect of the culture of Jackson's time. Activities such as these add greatly to the enjoyment and learning experience of a visit to the Hermitage.
Roaming the grounds can be an eye-opening process. The slave quarters provide insight into the less discussed portion of the Hermitage's history. More recent interpretation among the documents in these buildings is quite illuminating and worthwhile.
The gardens are a nice diversion as well. Not only do they provide an aesthetic break, it is also there you'll find the tomb of Jackson, his wife Rachel and several family members. It provides a bit of insight into family history.
The house is the highlight of the tour. I'm a sucker for well-preserved historical houses, but the history associated with this one makes it particularly special. The furnishings are beautiful and the guides do a very good job with the interpretation of what you see when walking through.
In the end, it goes without saying that Jackson was a complicated man. His treatment of Native Americans as President and the fact that he owned a large number of slaves in his private life were two hugely negative scars on his legacy. Like physical scars, such character disfigurements can give someone an initial repulsive appearance. But it's only when we take a deep breath and adjust to that first impression that we can move past it to see someone like Jackson in totality; that is, with a rational eye. Once we see the good and the bad, we can synthesize an entire, often complex, picture. But good or bad, it's all history. The issues at hand do not constitute the man and the man is not the sole embodiment of those issues. This place helps a person to assimilate a collection of facts that are contributions to the aggregate that make up the mosaic of time.