Laura A.
Yelp
Our stay at Gay's lovely bed & breakfast was a highlight of our family trip to Hawaii. The home is full of history and beauty, and Gay was an amazing host with heart. She prepared scrumptious breakfasts, and if you love tropical fruits, you're in for a treat! During breakfasts, she shared so much of her love for her adopted home, and I felt a connection to her and her community of friends (whom she met through her hula group and other activities). We stayed in the Samurai Suite, which was ideal for us; my husband and I stayed in the main room, and our teenagers stayed in the twin beds in the other room. The fans kept us cool and comfortable, and we loved being able to sleep open to the nighttime air and nature sounds; but when our one teen (whose body likes Arctic temps) got warm on occasion, air conditioning was available in that room. The Hilo side of the island is cooler and wetter than the western side, but it rained mainly at night or for short stretches during the day.
Months ago, we booked 6 nights for August; then as the time got closer and the volcano wreaked havoc on nearby areas then all but stopped, we worried that we might not have enough to do, with all but a distant part of Volcano National Park closed, parts of the southern shore (e.g., Kapoho hot ponds) covered by new lava, and red lava no longer flowing. (We also knew the volcano had devastated people's lives so didn't want to be insensitive, whiny tourists.) But there was so much to do anyway, and we left not having done everything we'd wanted.
Activities? We went to Richardson State Park expecting a so-so local beach, and it blew us away. We love snorkeling but hadn't expected much in terms of reef health; but toward the right side from the lifeguard station, not immediately but a bit further in, we found surprisingly healthy reef. Fish were everywhere, so our kids saw many even without getting quite to the healthy-reef part. (Also, please use reef-friendly sunscreen and don't stand on rocks--coral tries to grow there and gets stamped out.) And if you clamber over lava rocks further to the right, preferably with better shoes than our slippers (local term for flip-flops), you'll see more wild ocean and probably some sea turtles who've come in to rest. Later in our vacation, we stayed on the Kona side and got up early to go to the Mauna Kea beach; that was a gorgeous beach, and it was supposed to have some of the best snorkeling in the Kohala region, but the reef was not nearly as healthy. (We never made it to the Captain Cook area so can't speak to the snorkeling anywhere there.)
We also loved the Botanical Gardens north of town (but it's the only place in all of Hawaii that we needed mosquito repellant--still not nearly as bad as Maryland), and we saw some waterfalls but not all we'd planned. We liked the Imiloa museum (culture and astronomy); but if you want to go up to the Maunakea observatory visitor's station, plan it early during your stay and check their website at 3:00 p.m. on a T, W, F, or Sat to see if star gazing is on for that evening (vs too cloudy), then arrive plenty early before the parking lot fills up: http://www.ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis/visiting-mauna-kea/star-gazing-program.html . The Hilo farmer's market is really cool, and the Pahoa one is supposedly, too, in a different way. For hiking, there are lots of very short walks near waterfalls, but a lot of the great hikes are in Volcano National Park, which was closed, and a lot of gorgeous land on the Hamakua Coast is privately owned. So we went to Waipio Valley and hiked down the rugged jeep/truck road to a gorgeous black sand beach; the walk back up is brutal (long & steep) but fine if you're in decent health, bring water, and take all the rest breaks you need. We really enjoyed Hilo, too, a neat, funky, real-life town with many cool shops, eateries, galleries, and small museums; it feels safe but is pretty dark after the sun sets, because of the need to avoid light pollution for the telescopes, so we hung out there mainly during the day.