Richard R.
Yelp
I've said for many years how much Hilton Head Island seems as if it has a homing beacon to my soul. Never could I explain why, until our latest visit took me touring around the island looking for historical sites, which I hadn't really explored before.
We've done really all there is to do on the island in terms of the touristy things, so this time we were in search of hidden gems. My self-guided tour led me to the Rear Range Lighthouse, Baynard Plantation Ruins, Zion Chapel of Ease, Cherry Street School, HH Steam Gun, the Coastal Discovery Museum and Mitchelville Freedom Park.
[ EXPERIENCE THE PARK ]
When you arrive, you will find a large gravel parking area under several large trees with huge overhead canopies. A few small (faux) structures have been erected to give a town sort of feel, but the Mitchelville Preservation Project is working to excavate other nearby sites to add to the history that has been demolished over time. One of the most scenic features is the boardwalk to the gazebo overlooking Fish Haul Creek marshland.
There are a couple of historic items such as an old wagon, a row boat and a 'bench by the road' which is one of 19 benches around the world established as a "reflection of the ignored, unknown and forgotten African-American Ancestors and their influence on the lives and events that helped shape the world."
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The name "Bench by the Road" is taken from Toni Morrison's remarks in a 1989 interview with World Magazine where she spoke of the absences of historical markers that help remember the lives of Africans who were enslaved and of how her fifth novel, Beloved, served this symbolic role:
"There is no place you or I can go, to think about or not think about, to summon the presences of, or recollect the absences of slaves . . . There is no suitable memorial, or plaque, or wreath, or wall, or park, or skyscraper lobby. There's no 300-foot tower, there's no small bench by the road. There is not even a tree scored, an initial that I can visit or you can visit in Charleston or Savannah or New York or Providence or better still on the banks of the Mississippi. And because such a place doesn't exist . . . the book had to".
NOTE: Above was taken from the Toni Morrison Society. BELOVED was adapted to screen by Oprah Winfrey in 1998.
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[ HISTORY ]
I've always known that African Americans have a heavy, yet quiet presence on the island and have for centuries, but what I learned on this trip blew my mind. Hilton Head Island, and specifically the area near Fort Howell, became THE FIRST SELF-GOVERNING FREED BLACK TOWN in the United State, several years before the Emancipation Proclamation was signed.
The Union army attacked the two Confederate forts on the island November 7, 1861and later drove the Confederate forces to retreat to the mainland. Many sought freedom and flocked to the island. Barracks soon became overcrowded, so General Ormsby Mitchel dedicated a large parcel of the land to the newly freed slaves to cultivate, elect their own officials, create their own laws, school, and establishing churches and retail stores.
History says when the school district was created in 1866, there were 238 students in the town. Men were recruited for the on-going Civil War and Black soldiers built nearby Fort Howell to protect Mitchelville. They even raced horses along the beaches for entertainment and manufactured sweet grass baskets and fishing nets. These baskets are still practiced and sold today at the street markets in nearby Savannah.
It is said Michelville became a template for future freedmen towns and accumulated over 3,000 residents at its peak. The website says:
"Even though the citizens of this important community moved on from the physical property, their connection to the town endures through their descendants and the impact of the first taste of African American independence. Mitchelville truly is: Where Freedom Began"
Link: https://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-16754502
Project aspirations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoCeNBFdxLI
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8Uo3bnpLRg&feature=emb_logo
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[ FINAL THOUGHTS ]
So now my mind wonders if I truly have any generational connection to this place. It's probably a long shot, but again, it has always been strange to me just how much I love visiting the island. I RARELY vacation anywhere more than a few times, no matter how much I enjoy the area. My motto is: THERE IS TOO MUCH WORLD TO SEE to keep going back to the same place. However that has never applied to Hilton Head. Not only do I not mind coming here often, I always hate to leave! Now at least I feel validated in my desire to be here considering its historic importance.
ANCESTRIAL CONNECTION or NOT, I'm proud to have this historic beauty as my 1,300th review and final post of 2020!!!
PS - I've been having trouble with yelp connecting my pics to my reviews lately, but I have posted plenty of them if you care to visit my latest photos.
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