Tomnoscar
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If you've had enough of the cathedrals of Burgos and Leon and want somewhere quiet to unwind, the Hotel Tres Coronas in Santo Domingo offers something for almost every body.||The hotel sits presiding over the main square of this small town. Inside is dark,old wood, bejewelled occasionally with antique furniture, a stack of magazines here, a pile of books there. The downstairs is mainly taken up with the dining room and bar, but the lovely staircase takes one up to one's room - our's on the top floor with a landing of table, chairs and reading material - comfortably fitted out, clean, big bed, comfortable pillows and spare blankets in the cupboard if needed.||Downstairs, in the restaurant, or indeed on the terrace if it's a nice day, the food is flavoursome and generous. The menu has that rarity in Spanish menus, things that are really vegetarian. No hidden bits of ham or chicken, just a vegetable casserole, full of local fresh vegetables in a light, well-flavoured stock, or you may prefer artichokes with porcini mushrooms, again no hidden 'extras', just what it says. For carnivores I can personally vouch for the rabbit which was delicious and also for the lamb, roasted in a traditional wood fired oven, (the portion was so big, it even had the German couple, on the table next to us, aghast). The staff are helpful and friendly: though English was not their strong suit. The place is tightly run by the owner whose father's bust watches over the transactions at the reception desk, keeping, I have no doubt, every one on their toes. During the day one can sit and watch the Griffon Vultures sailing on thermals above the town, in the evening it is a very short stroll down to the monastery to hear the monks celebrate Mass in plainsong.||If you like looking at gardens, a short walk to the west end of the town, behind the official car-park, will take you to the town's allotments, interesting as much for the imagination of the allotmenteers in their fencing and seating arrangements, as for the quality and fecundity of the produce itself. I think that one night is probably not enough.