Mert Korkusuz
Google
A great adventure to the top with some absolutely stunning views of the sunrise in the region. A thoroughly great experience for those who are prepared and up to the challenge.
I think its worth considering the following before deciding to climb this mountain with a tour operator.
1) Whilst this is considered an "easy 6000m peak" it is not "easy". Yes, there is no need for technical climbing and the crampon walking required is fairly straightforward but it is a physical challenge (about 1400m of elevation gain during hiking), and there are several exposed spots where a wrong step might lead to a fall/slide down the glacier that could have devastating consequences
2) Altitude. I think it's worth noting that even on the three day tours from La Paz that offer an extra night of acclimatisation at base camp gain elevation at a rate that falls into the "High risk category" for developing altitude sickness in accordance with international guidelines developed by experts in the field and based on the best availabe evidence. Of course, this doesn't mean everyone will get it, but this increases the risk of developing it (and developing the more severe forms). Of our group of 20, four could not summit (80% summit rate) but majority of the group had some symptoms of altitude. Of the five people doing the two day trip, two could not summit due to altitdue illness (60% summit rate). In speaking with other groups who had attempted prior to us - summit rates were considerably lower even for the three-day trip (less than half).
3) Interesting company practices. Went with quite a popular company with great reviews and one that we were recommended, that runs daily trips and otherwise operated very smoothly. It was interesting that a few people who were quite unwell on the summit morning were allowed to leave for the summit (not the best idea to gain more altitude when suffering altitude illness, and again goes against the recommendations from international altitude societies and guidelines). Each unwell person then had to be taken back down by an individual guide partway up (normally one guide per two climbers) which required shuffling of guides and climbers whilst ascending and ultimately reduced the guide to climber ratio on the mountain. Additionaly, the advice provided by the lead guide to the group regarding the use of altitude medications was incorrect and once again not in keeping with recognised guidelines. It's probably better to consult with your own doctor or travel medicine service about this - I can't help but wonder how many peoples' experience could have been improved if they used the correct measures.
4) The fine print. The company we went with ultimately takes no responsibility for anything: it is the client's responsibility to ensure they are fit enough and acclimatised enough to do the trip, it's the client's responsibility to ensure the weather on the days they book is suitable, it is their responsibility to stop if they feel unwell, and their responsibility to have mountain rescue insurance. There is no checking on any of these - I could have arrived from sea level to La Paz and they would happily take me the same day as long as I paid. In terms of rescue, the guide explained to us there is no helicopter rescue and if things were really bad, he would call La Paz and ask for a taxi to come to base camp.
