Aria v.
Yelp
New Orleans Birthday Trip = Vodou in the Bywater Area
After being throughly disappointed in the French Quarter at the "fauxdoo" tourist and trinket shops, I finally got a proper apothecary recommendation for my new crossdressing gay goth friend.
Selection:
Manbo Sallie Ann is one of just a handful of initiated Haitian Vodou leaders in NOLA. As a priestess, she's in charge of her own society called La Source Ancienne, but as a shopkeeper she has the largest selection of herbs I've seen in a long time. I finally found the Valerian I was looking for, and quite a few other things.
There is a wide selection of both handmade and factory-made candles in all shapes and sizes, as well as botanical oils and incense in just about every flavor imaginable. Traditional art and items are abound, anything from gris-gris bags and spirit sticks, to painted candleholders and statues. If you're looking to deck out and alter or just stock a pantry, this should be your first stop.
Most of the standard supplies are very reasonably priced, as are the books (of which there are a lot). Some of the more ornate and individual items can range in price, but if you're in the mood for something premade, the items you'll need won't take a lot out of your pocket. If you want something special, just ask. They're always making things to order, and while it might cost you some, you'll know it's authentic.
In addition to my herbs, I picked up a glass evil eye hand and a few candles. In all honesty, it was a shame I hadn't properly taken the time to plan all the supplies I might have needed. It makes me wish I lived in New Orleans, because for anyone looking for magical components, or even if you're just making potpourri, this is one stop shopping.
Venue:
When I found out it was on Piety Street, I couldn't help but smile. Such a perfect place for the store I was looking for. If you're a tourist and only visiting to drink your ass off, the Bywater Area might scare you a bit. Most of this area was damaged during Katrina, but, unlike the Lower 9th Ward, has withstood and built itself up again. Still, it's not exactly an eye-pleasing area like the French Quarter, but it's authentic. Think lower middle class residential area, that's what it is.
The shop itself is easily recognizable. It's vibrantly painted outside with symbols and portraits of Loa and Bondye. Manbo Sallie Ann herself runs the shop mostly, and was there when we went in. It's a calming atmosphere, and though the space is small-ish, it's packed full wall to ceiling with anything you could want. Herbs line one wall, books another. Tables and shelves are filled in logical categories: candles and incense over here, tarot next to books, crafts all on one wall.
There's also a private room for readings and other services that the manbo herself will perform. Just remember, this is true Haitian Vodou, not Hoodoo or even New Orleans Voodoo. Don't come looking for dolls to stick pins into or hexes to perform. You will find some Catholic and African influences--which are almost unalterably intertwined nowadays--but this is true Vodou, so treat it with respect, and you'll leave the shop happier than when you came in.