Vivian C.
Yelp
While researching Kyoto, we came across Izuju (祇園いづ重 京都寿司) as a highly recommened option for sabazushi. Saba is mackerel and zushi is, well, sushi. However, sabazushi is slightly pickled in salt and sushi vinegar. Izuju specializes in sabazushi, a Kyoto speciality, and during their near 100 years of operation, they have become famous in Kyoto as one of the best places to eat it. The restaurant is easily located directly across the street from the bright orange Yasaka Shrine on Shijo Street.
We stopped by Izuju late in the afternoon one day after exploring southern Kyoto. We had dinner reservations later in the night so Izuju would be a light snack (or first dinner). Arriving around 4pm, there were a few seats available.
I began with a small bottle of cold sake and Adam took a large Sapporo to drink.
We decided to order a combo that came with sabazushi, inari (sushi rice wrapped in aburaage, or deep fried tofu skin), hakozushi (box sushi) and makizushi. The hakozushi usually comes with grilled pike conger (a type of eel) or mackerel but really depends on the season. Due to it being summer, the hakozushi came with the pike conger on top. The makizushi consisted of shiitake mushrooms, kanpyo (gourd), mitsuba (Japanese wild parsley) and omelet and was reminiscent of the Korean kimbap, as a point of reference.
The standout was definitely the sabazushi. It was unlike any sushi that either of us had tasted in the past. The savory pickled mackerel on top of the vinegary rice wrapped in a piece of slippery kelp-all of the textures and flavors really worked well together. We enjoyed how delicate the texture of the fish, which despite being pickled, maintained the subtle flavor of the mackerel. This combined with the vinegary rice made for a perfect bite! We could have ordered a full plate...
The makizushi was a nice change of pace from the other items in the combo but wasn't anything too special. We agreed it was definitely our least favorite of the four.
The hakozushi was okay, but after the more flavorful sabazushi, it fell a bit flat. The pike conger was cooked well and the rice was again quite good but we both preferred the sabazushi. The inari was a definite close second behind the sabazushi. The sweet tofu skin gave a balance to the vinegary rice and was different from any inari we've ever had in the states. We both preferred this version to ones we had eaten in the past due to how delicate the tofu skin was.
Izuju is a place we would both recommend you not to miss while in Kyoto. Their version of sabazushi is fantastic and allows you the opportunity to taste a bit of authentic Kyoto cuisine. It really is something very unique that we both were glad we had the chance to have while in Kyoto. While some items on the menu were misses, the inari was very good as well and something that definitely is worth the trip. Plus, the size of the pieces are much larger than what most people would imagine sushi to be so a few pieces are more than filling. We would highly recommend Izuju as a great place for a quick snack, especially due to its proximity to the Yasaka Shrine!