Delerious B.
Yelp
Getting a good meal in a big city is pretty easy, but getting one in regional Australia is not. If you're travelling it's a short-term problem. A European/"Modern Australian" restaurant (a style, admittedly, I avoid eating out as I cook it) in the sticks is much tougher to run and breakfast and degustation dinner at Jam reminded why - finding staff who can cook and serve at a high level in a small talent pool is not easy.
The menu is genius (breakfast especially), excellent flavour combinations that reflect the location. My green lentil pancake with eggplant, harissa, labneh and egg with coriander and watercress was something I will probably try and learn to cook myself. But the pancake was, I'm sure, stodgier than whoever composed the dish would have expected. It was OK, but I was more in love with the original dish I could sense through what I was served than the dish itself. Service was friendly and competent. And, in a town which still feels quite racially segregated, props to the owners for employing some non-white staff.
In the evening, there was more of the same with the food - well-conceived dishes that just lacked delicacy throughout: overly salty (and I love salt, so I would rarely say this) or just unbalanced, with a single flavour crowding out everything else, or a touch overdone. It was OK, but nothing quite hit what we hoped from the description. One of us was on a pescatarian menu and so was given a salmon course instead of meat - but it was served with bacon. Service was patchy from the relatively new staff - first course did not come with the matched wine. Our two pizzas from down the road the night before were not better, but at a quarter of the price I did wonder whether we could have gone back to them.
This is the best place we ate in Townsville and would happily recommend it (though not if it were in Melbourne where it would be 2-3 stars), I just wrote this so that anyone visiting would be ready for the gap between the proposition and the execution. I don't know their story but it may be that the original chef is not on board, whatever the case it feels a bit like a shell or an echo of an interesting and ambitious enterprise.