Tony S.
Yelp
My fav. on the Royal Mile. It's well hidden inside Lady Stair's Close in front of Writer's Museum. It's tucked into a side wall and down some steps once you enter the Close from the Royal Mile. Not that many tourist here, or any drunken Stags or Hens acting like idiots. Very traditional and laid back, no loud music. You wouldn't know it was a pub from the outside either. 2 picnic tables in front and a plain white plastered wall with 2 plain windows are all you see, making it look more like an entrance to nice flat. A simple sign hangs out front. The customers spilled out into the Close, drinks in hand, standing & chatting in groups casually, something you couldn't do if the pub were on the main street. Inside is a treasure too. It's old wood beams crossing every 2 feet on the ceiling, painted on the spaces between the crossbeams, and a white, clean stucco wall with charming pastoral pictures hung around the place. The bar is narrow but long, accommodating around 60 people that night, and it was packed. The atmosphere isn't living room, and isn't modern chic, but it's warm and cozy without having cloying wood everywhere.
(They have nice modern toilets above the bar, something unusual in a pub like this, I think.) They had Real Ale, cask ales, freshly hand cellar pulled as well as the regular swill. Overall, my favorite of all the bars in the immediate area.