Jōmon Sugi

I started early in the morning (6am) and really couldn't see anything. A flash light is a must if you are leaving before sunrise. The first 4 miles were a breeze walking along the train tracks, but be careful because it's easy to slip off the planks if you aren't paying attention. There are a couple of sketchy little bridges with no rails so if you are afraid of heights prepare yourself for that, but it's a very short distance so not terrible. I made one small detour towards the beginning to check out the river. There is a spot where you can see the water through the trees and a small path that leads down to a relatively calm spot with a large pool. A perfect place to have breakfast if you haven't already. Once you get to the final bathroom (the end of the train tracks) you can break for lunch and refill your water before the real hike begins. Turn around and before you cross back over the last bridge you will see a narrow steep path on the left. That's the way. The next couple miles are steep and challenging. About 15 to 25 minutes into the second part you should reach Wilson's Stump were if you go into it and immediately turn to the left you can crouch down and take a picture of the heart shaped opening at the top. From there it's at least another hour to two hours depending on your pace and physical ability. I'd say it was between 1.5 and 2 miles. (My watch may have been a little off because it said I did 15 miles and I think google said it's 13.3 miles. As you get closer to Jōmon Sugi you will see more wooden walkways and the newer they are the closer you are. There are two observation decks with the southside putting you right in front of Jōmon Sugi. The quietness of the forest and spiritual feeling of that spot is unreal. Well worth the physically demanding hike to get there. It's better to go fast at the beginning and then take your time coming back because as the day progresses you can see more since the sun has finally risen in the sky. Also if you are like me and finish the hike in 8 hours it's good to note that the first bus back to the museum doesn't arrive till 15:00 (3pm) so no need to hurry back. Try and get a bus seat on the left window side for the ride back (opposite the driver) so you can enjoy the breathtaking views of the mountains. I unfortunately say on the wrong side so I was trying to look without looking like I was staring at the guy sleeping next to me. It was an incredible experience and very physically demanding, but if you go at your own place and listen to your body, take breaks and hydrate as necessary anyone can do it. Again I recommended going a little faster at the beginning so you can relax now on the way back as you are coming down.

We set off from the Arakawa trailhead at 7:00 AM. The one-way distance is approximately 11 kilometers, and the round trip is approximately 22 kilometers. Most of the trail follows the old railway tracks used to transport timber, passing through dense cedar forests and moss-covered streams. Hikers will pass other equally ancient Yakusugi, such as the Wilson stump, whose trunk has been hollowed out but still survives, and the huge and majestic Daiosugi. Upon reaching the final stop, in order to protect this fragile ancient tree, visitors can only admire its splendor from a viewing platform a safe distance away. Although close contact is not possible, the awe-inspiring feeling of standing before this thousand-year-old giant tree is enough to dispel all fatigue. It took us about 9 hours to complete the journey.

For the forest bathers and tree enthusiasts, Jomon Sugi is like having ambrosia injected straight into the veins. You will experience the sublime. The hike itself is quite easy as 70% is on a set track. If you're a more experienced hiker, you will find this more annoying than enjoyable as it is difficult to pass people in groups. Once you get to the back 30% it becomes more invigorating, although partially all tracked, mostly wooden steps. That said, it is gorgeous landscape and forest, so you being able to turn off your brain to watch around you without considering your foot placement is a decent exchange for the loss of intensity. Time needed: I drew 6 sketches on the way up, it took about 5 hours and my hike back was 2 hours 20 minutes. Transport: For in season, bus schedules are not the same as online currently. You have to take the bus before 5:40 (5:40 being the last bus now) If you miss the bus you can sometimes order a taxi (which I ended up taking for ¥6,000.) Expensive, BUT I did have a delayed start and had the trail to myself for about 60% of it until I caught up to the other groups. Truly magical. Water: You can refill along the way, Yakushima water is safe to drink from the mountain. Bathrooms: there are some operating bathrooms at the very start and the transition point from rail track to stairs area. There is also portable toilet you need to have a bathroom bag with to use. Bring food! All over Yakushima you can buy a bento to take with you. I regret only having baked goods, fruit, and snack bars. There are a lot of stops to be able to eat and it would have been dreamy to have eaten a whole, rejuvenating meal versus snacks along the way.

Jomon sugi is just a big tree, you cannot even touch it. There are viewing decks 50meters away from the tree. What made the 10hour trek worth it is the breathtaking sceneries along the trek. Every rest, I can’t stop saying it’s so beautiful here.. Straight out of the fairytale book. Pictures don’t do justice. The view is so inspiring. I understand why Hayao Miyazaki got inspired by the forest and used it in his works. The trek is easy. There are stairs and paths that are easy to follow. 100m past the Jomon sugi is a small house/ a camping house where people can stay overnight. It’s free. No staff. There is a tent toilet near it. The las bus from the trail entrance is 5:45pm so it’s advisable to get there early.

Quiet day after 1st December (off season) recommended. Must carry a handy light as you'll have to cross bridges without railings "in the darkness" till 7am. Incredible scenery and ancient cedars thousands of years old.

The hike there is great, but this magnificent, ancient tree is some thing you look at an say " wow, ...ok". It is impressive but a huge old tree has limited appeal. "The journey there, is more important than the destination"

It took me 6.5 hours to hike it. It’s not that difficult but not too easy either. If you go I recommend taking a taxi service with a group of people instead of taking the bus . The taxi costed 6k yen from anbo. We took the bus orginally at 4:40 am and then you need to take another bus at the museum which often had a long queue.

A hike that many may consider to be the most popular on the island. Definitely can be done within 6-8 hours, and without a tour guide. Highly advise starting around 5-6:00 in the morning just to be safe. Tickets for the bus ride to the starting point can be bought at the bottom parking lot. Most of the hike is straightforward, while the last mile and a bit gets a bit steeper and tougher. Bring some snacks and beverages for hydration as there are rest stops a long the way and places to go sit down and eat at the top (please remember to take your trash home!!). Beautiful and breath-taking, rain or shine, an absolute must experience for all.

Found my love here in Yakushima. I fell in love with Yakushima's nature. Yakushima is known as a vortex (aka. power spot) and I felt strong healing power during my hike to Jomon Sugi Cedar. Jomon Sugi hike is about 22km round trip. Of those most of the way (8km one way) is easy tram way. Since I didn't know what to expect, I hired a private guide for my hike, and I am so glad I did. I was promptly picked up at 4:20am from my hotel. Hotel to a parking area to the bus station is about 30 mins drive. No private cars permitted beyond that point, only way to go to the trail is by bus. First bus departs 4:55am and bus can accommodate up to 55 passengers. We took the second bus (5:25am) and arrived at the trail around 5:55am. Clean restroom is available (long queue for women of course), we started hiking around 6:15am. I was informed average hike takes 11 hours. We finished in 8 hours including a long lunch break. Since most of the way is a tram way, it was pretty easy. Even steep part of the trail (total of 6km) wasn't bad at all. They have nice walk way and steps, I really didn't need my heavy hiking boots. Distance may seem long, although many web sites warns that this hike is not for everyone, I thought most anyone can do it, they just have to go slow. I prepared myself with the Humphrey's peak hike in Arizona (highest point in AZ) three weeks prior to the visit. Compared to that hike since I didn't have the altitude to think about in Yakushima, this was so much easier. Hike itself was amazing. My guide was so knowledgeable, I learned so much about Yakushima's nature. Yakusugi (Yakushima Cedar) is so resilient. Despite of hardship (by human and weather), they eventually learned the way to survive strong. I was fascinated by their resiliency, made me realize the nature will eventually find on its way to survive. Third generation cedar, couple's cedar, they are relying on each other for sustainability. The bedrock of the island is granite, and as such it hosts no active volcanoes. Yakusugi Cedar found a way to strive on hard rocks. Witnessing their strength throughout the hike was the most amazing part. Weather was perfect during days I spent on the island. Typhoon came and left prior to my arrival. Rained until the day before my arrival. Sunny during my stay, and started raining the day after I left. It is said that it rains 35 days out of each month, which just shows how much it rains here. The forests of Yakushima inspired the forest setting in Hayao Miyazaki's film Princess Mononoke. If you've seen a film, you get some image about how dense the green is here. Water is super soft. I was informed to bring just one bottle of water, the rest I can refill with river water. They do have several water stations, which they get directly from river. The best water I've ever tasted. In fact, I filled up my Hydrapak water bottle to take back to my hotel towards the end of my hike. Since we finished our hike too early, and had a little over an hour until the first bus out of the trail, we spent some time by the river. My guide carried backpacking stove, he made a cup of coffee with his own coffee beans he roasted at home. He even packed a grinder and Ceramic Dripper. I enjoyed a cup of coffee while soaking my feet in cold river water. I laid down on one of the big boulder, feeling ice cold water on my feet, warm sun on my face with occasional breeze, I was totally unplugged from the daily life, I felt the true meaning of pura vida. Tranquility I felt is beyond I can describe in words. No wonder why they earned a title of UNESCO World Hesitate site. Energy from Yakushima's nature healed my heart, my mind and my body. So there, what's not to love here?