Alexander K.
Yelp
There are so many Michelin rated restaurants in New York, but this one in particular intrigued me as it is from a Korean chef. We had a great experience at Jungsik, so I was looking forward to this experience. However, this establishment missed the mark on some dishes while performing well in others.
Our menu included the following (with the addition of 3 à la carte desserts) at the studio counter: an everything bagel canapé, caviar (dill custard, yuzu creme fraiche), madai (granny smith apple, tarragon cream & celery), hiramasa (eclair, raspberry & cashew butter), banh mi (beef tartare, pear butter & buffalo mozzarella), black cod (korean bouillabaisse, nori tofu & radicchio), abalone risotto (nori sabayon), sourdough jajangmyeon (comté cheese, shrimp & pickled shallots), long island duck (sweet potato cheesecake, cranberry & duck jus), warm brownie (stout caramel, gouda ice cream), jasmine meringue (coconut rice pudding, pineapple & coconut yuzu sorbet), butter pecan mousse (chocolate sorbet), mandarin curd (black olive sable & black sesame sorbet), mont blanc (chestnut), and finally the amazake Boston cream pie (olive oil ganache & black cardamom ice cream).
I think the main problem with some of the pairings in the fish dishes were the pairing of fish and fruit. I understand that some restaurants want to differentiate themselves with others, but the pairing of fish and fruit does not work well at all. As fish is a delicate flavor, it should be complimented with something that brings some salinity or a delicate umami such as a soy sauce or soy based sauce. This issue was most prominent in the dishes featuring madai, hiramasa, and the black cod. I think the most bizarre combination was in the interior of the eclair on the hiramasa (amberjack) dish, which featured a raspberry pureé; it just didn't work. Raspberry works with a sweet custard or chocolate, but not any savory protein item. On the madai (sea bream), carefully sliced granny smith apple and raw celery was placed with the fish; the acidic sweetness of the apple served no purpose in elevating or complimenting the sea bream. The black cod was peared with torched segments of citrus, which again, didn't compliment the cod very well. I suppose one could eat around them?
The weakest dish was the sourdough jajangmyeon; if I was the chef, I would have tempered expectations of the dish by not mentioning jajangmyeon at all, as it didn't resemble it in the slightest bit. The shrimp was succulent but seemingly it wasn't seasoned at all, instead relying on the noodle's sauce. I would suggest that the chef do a luxurious play on jajangmyeon with a high quality lamb or beef and the normalized stir-fried black bean sauce if using this specific nomenclature.
The clear strengths of the menu included the initial canapé, caviar dish, banh mi, abalone risotto, aged duck, and the desserts of course. The miniature everything bagel canapé was very cute and clever while delivering the essence of the full sized version. The dill custard served as an herbaceous, cool, slightly sweet, and creamy contrast to the salinity and delicate burst from the caviar. This was a creative departure from how caviar is usually served as a luxurious quenelle on top of a completed dish. The banh mi was an interesting interpretation of a traditional Vietnamese banh mi, which is a closed baguette with sliced cured or grilled meat with julienned vegetables. Instead, it was open faced and featured beef tartare with complimentary accoutrements that provided a pleasurable savory eating experience. The abalone risotto was simply divine; probably one of the best risotto dishes I have eaten as it was served with an Asian flair. The al dente rice, savory nori sabayon, and the gently cooked abalone served as excellent textural and flavor profiles. The Long Island duck was aged (I believe the staff stated it was aged at 20 days at minimum), seared beautifully with a crispy skin, and served pink. This was an expert preparation and while aged, still provided succulence to the duck meat. These savory dishes really saved the night and I would suggest the chef to extend on these strengths and take sweet fruit away from the delicate fish dishes.
The desserts were all beautiful and delicious; I was getting beyond full at that point and probably would have enjoyed them more but I was getting major FOMO as we were sitting in front of the dessert counter (hence the studio tasting menu). Two critiques I have of the desserts were that the mandarin curd was a bit too intense and the caramel of the warm brownie was too sweet. Otherwise, the taste, textural components, and aesthetics of each dessert were spot on and served as a highlight of the meal.
I am on the fence with recommending this restaurant, but I would say it is worth trying once with the caveat that fruit is featured with fish. That being said, the ingredients and technique are on clear display here.