Tricia A.
Yelp
So on my birthday or around my birthday I try to do new things and have new experiences. That's how I like to celebrate life. This year, I was finally able to check off surfing from my bucket list. Fortunately, my friend really loves the ocean and was more than happy to go to a surfing class with me. Just trying to get into our wetsuits made me laugh!
I knew that surfing was bound to be exhausting, but just getting our huge, heavy surfboards balanced on our heads or carrying them under our arms while walking on soft sand was tiring enough. By the time we got to the meeting spot, we both wished we had taken our water bottles also, but then that would have been one more thing to carry.
The class on the beach itself was good. It was a relatively large class with I'm guessing around 20 students with 3 instructors. Each of the instructors took turns. One taught the terminology and parts of the board. Another taught how to get up on the board and how to keep your balance. Another gave safety tips.
Getting into the water was a whole different story. First of all, no one tells you that when you wipe out, the waves will pummel you and make you feel like you're going to drown and die. There were several times the waves simply washed me off my board, took me under, and I was literally spinning in circles underwater not knowing which way was up or down.
My only saving graces were: 1) I know how to swim, and 2) We were in shallow enough water that my feet could touch the ground and kick myself back up to the surface. I can't imagine taking this class without knowing how to swim. *I* know how to swim and I was terrified!
I also now wish that I had taken private classes instead of being in such a big group because with so many students and so few instructors to go around, I felt a bit neglected. I didn't know what I was doing, my board and I were literally all over the place, and I didn't have many chances to actually try getting on my board.
Towards the end, one of the instructors saw me just sitting on the sand wet, sad, and pathetic and was like, "I'll stay with you until you get all the way out there." By "out there" he meant past the strong incoming waves because I couldn't even get past that part.
Then, they yelled at me to get off my board which we didn't even go over in class. Apparently, when a wave is really big, you're supposed to just jump off, but I was too scared to because that was my huge flotation device. The last thing I wanted to do was get off it! That's when I wiped out and span around in circles underwater.
Then a 2nd instructor got my board and got me on it and at this point I was terrified and exhausted and said to him straight out "I don't want to do this. I just want to go to shore." All he said in return was "I'll get you a nice wave."And sure enough, he yelled "Get up!" and I popped up on my board and rode my first wave! It was only a few seconds, but I did it and it made it even better to see my classmates on shore clapping for me!
So the good part is that I finally got that off my bucket list and I was able to get up at least once. The bad part was that I truly felt like the ocean was trying to drown and kill me and for that reason this may be my first and last time trying surfing. If I do try it again, the waves have to be teeny tiny, practically imperceptible or it has to be one of those indoor man made wave machines that are only ankle deep so that I definitely won't drown in it!
Either way, it's definitely an experience I won't soon forget and I thank the instructors for maintaining their encouragement even when I was flat out ready to quit. For that, I give you my heartfelt thanks!