Angus
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If you love wildlife, snorkelling, camping and messing around in crystal clear water, then this is the right place for you. It was my third time here.
It's not easy, or particularly cheap to get to (park fee + speedboat about 1700 Baht) , but is well worth the effort. We stayed, in a tent (600 Baht per night) , for 2 nights but could have easily stayed longer.
The snorkelling is easily the best in Thailand, but beware, after here the rest will be dissapointing. The snorkelling sites are deep and sometimes with current, so worth wearing a lifejacket if you're not a stong swimmer. Hire the gear before you go from Sabina tours near to the pier for a better price.
The park office is very much Thai style, so a little confusing at times but ok once you work out their system - coupons for paying for food, not cash. Also, any sunblock you use must be eco-friendly - there is a really big fine for using other kinds.
The food was quite decent value for money, but we were glad we took some of our own supplies, 7-11 croissants and 3 in 1 coffee sachets to supplement the breakfast. Drinking water is free but twice the normal price if you buy bottled water. Alcohol is officially not allowed.
There are 2 beaches to stay on and both have their pros and cons.
Chong Kat Bay looks cleaner and busier and slightly better organised, (more boat traffic and day trippers) with 2 small beaches and bungalow accomodation (1500-2000 Baht). It has a coffee shop and ice-cream freezer!
Mai Ngam beach has the camping ground with maybe 100 tents set up and a space for bring-your-own. There are 3 glamping tents (with air con, 2000 Baht) but book early for these. The toilets / showers are fairly clean. The bonus to being on this side of the island is the long, fine sand beach, shallow sandy bay (perfect for kids) and a lovely little snorkelling area with clownfish, morays and baby black tip sharks (by the mangrove forest to the left). There are monkeys in the trees at night (Macaques), so hide your snacks well and don't leave anything edible outside.
This is not the cheapest option in Thailand but an exceptional experience. If you need to make it cheaper, definitely hire the tent, snorkelling gear and trips from off the island and take some food and drinks with you.