Lefteris Stamatelatos
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Kukeldash Madrasa.
It was built in 1568–1569 during the reign of Abdullah-Khan II and was funded by Bukhara governor Kulbab Kukeldash, a high-ranking vizier and “milk brother” to Abdullah Khan II. The madrasah, named after him, is the largest madrasah in Bukhara.
The rectangular building, measuring 69 by 80 meters, was constructed by master craftsmen of the time and features 160 hujra cells (student rooms) across two floors surrounding a spacious courtyard. It once accommodated up to 320 students. Unlike typical madrasahs with solid walls, Kukeldash has open niches and balconies adorned with stucco and mosaic. Above each room, individually patterned openwork lattices, called panjara, display intricate hexagonal designs.
Though modest in decoration, its size symbolized Bukhara’s power. Inside, two large domed halls served as a mosque and a classroom.
Over the centuries, the madrasah has been used as a caravanserai, an Islamic school, and even temporary housing as a hotel.
Today, it houses a museum dedicated to writer Sadriddin Ayni, who attended the Kukeldash Madrasah as a student in his youth, preserving its cultural and educational legacy. The courtyard is home to a craft centre where a variety of arts and crafts are produced by artisans by hand using century-old techniques and approaches.