Andrew W.
Yelp
If I could say only one thing about Kushiba, it would be this: It's not really a restaurant; it's a bar that serves food. By that, I mean, it's not somewhere to get a full meal. If one likes some food to go along with drinks, it's an interesting place to go. If one is planning a pub crawl, this would be a fantastic stop on the itinerary. As a stand-alone dinner destination, Kushiba is lacking.
Kushiba specializes in kushikatsu (串カツ), skewers of food that are breaded and deep-fried -- essentially a cross between the better-known grilled skewers known as KUSHIyaki (串焼き) and of the Japanese fried cutlets called KATSU (カツ). Kushikatsu originated in Osaka, which is renowned within Japan for its food culture. While Angelenos with any familiarity with an izakaya have probably encountered kushiyaki, kushikatsu remains almost unknown in L.A. Options at Kushiba include many things often found on a standard kushiyaki menu: asparagus, tomato, garlic, shiitake, beef, pork belly, tsukune (捏ね -- minced chicken meat), Japanese sausage, shrimp. Items that are uniquely suited to frying include flounder, lotus root, mochi, and Camembert. Most things are unseasoned so the diner can "season to taste" with seaweed salt, tonkatsu sauce (cut with apple juice), and/or Japanese mustard blended with sesame oil. On their own, the skewers can be pretty bland, but just a bit of the salt makes a world of difference. The tsukune with shiso leaf and pork belly were very good; I could have skipped the chicken wings and gotten another tsukune. After seeing the asparagus coming out with mayonnaise on it, I decided to skip that. The lotus root had a woody texture I did not much care for. The pepper is chunks of poblano (incorrectly called "pasilla"), which I love, but... that distinctive poblano flavor automatically makes me wish it was stuffed with cheese. (Chile relleno kushikatsu would not necessarily be a bad thing.)
And I'm Southern, so please, okra. Fried okra. I'd order a dozen of those.
I ordered the pickles, though I didn't much care for them. They had a harsh flavor, as if they hadn't been given enough time to ferment. Good Japanese pickles should be mellow, but these had astringent, sulphury notes. Not pleasant. The appetizers are pricey for the small, amuse bouche-like portions, so I ended up passing. (The microscopic size of the $32 wagyu corned beef appetizer the party down the bar received was just shocking.) The price of the kushikatsu skewers is fair at $3-$4.50 each, but they add up quickly, and after about a dozen, with those unpleasant pickles, and with tax and tip and God-only-knows-what fees and charges, I'd racked up a tab well north of fifty bucks without drinking -- and was still a bit peckish. (I'd been drinking earlier and was looking for some post-dipsomania nourishment.)
And drinking here should be addressed because Kushiba really is, first and foremost, a bar -- one with a curated selection of spirits chosen for unique character. That person who needs to be able to get their Ketel-and-cranberry should go elsewhere. Japanese spirits, of course, are dominant. My eyes instantly went to the bottle of Old Parr scotch on the shelf, which is not a common find. And I've never seen a bar with such an extensive selection of baijiu. I'm not sure who's drinking that sorghum menace, but trends must start somewhere, right?
The design of the store has clearly had a lot of thought put into it, with Japanese indigo-dyed cushions, glassware imported from France, and a nice selection of art on the walls. Service is earnest, with the staff still learning the ropes but trying to please. If one goes in with the goal of drinks with small plates rather than a full meal, Kushiba will be a fairly satisfying experience. They're presenting a part of Japanese cuisine that has, so far, not been offered in L.A., in a stylish environment. Now they just need to narrow that price-to-value ratio.