Ka-wei L
Google
In our travels, we are not hesitant to take a smallish detour just to check out an interesting, highly rated establishment. Our stay at the Masuichi Kyakuden in the obscure town of Obuse was the result of this wanderlust, and turned out to be one of our best decisions ever, ranking among our top five hotel nights.||||From start to finish, we were taken care of by two people: primarily by a lady who checked us in, brought us to our room, served us during dinner and checked us out. Another member of the staff parked the car for us and returned the car (with the windscreen defrosted) the following day.||||During dinner, we discovered that we were the only people staying at the hotel that night: “the chef is all yours”, she proudly declared. It then dawned upon me that the staff to guest ratio, at this point, would have equated to 3:2. The happy result of it being off season, the second weekend after the new year holidays.||||The food was delicious and delicately presented. When I enquired about the beautiful washi paper used to line the plate, she came back with four more sheets for our keepsake. She explained that the chef himself designed the paper, using a brush to paint it.||||Although not an advertised service, the ryokan also took our clothes, laundered and folded them, and even ironed my shirt, for free. (We were on a two-week-long road trip, and I had emailed the hotel earlier to ask if there was a coin laundry nearby.)||||These little touches make stays memorable, and the ryokan had nailed it.||||I won’t go through too much detail about the nuts and bolts of the Masuichi Kyakuden itself as previous reviewers, and the hotel website, have done a better job on this. Except to highlight that we loved the idea of it being located in a repurposed sake warehouse, that it has luxurious heated wooden floors, and that it boasts of a huge glass tub, which actually (and uncommonly) filled with hot water more than quickly enough before the impulse for a soak went away. ||||If I were to nitpick: the room we booked, the study type king bedder on the ground floor, was a tad dark. But I understand that, working with heritage buildings, you have to accept compromises with layout and such.||||A tip: check in on the dot at 3pm, then go visit the excellent Hokusai Museum next door, enjoy some chestnut confections at the Obusedo Honten and a sake tasting (six choices costing ¥170-¥310 each for a very large shot) at the Masuichi distillery. All of these shut by 5pm, at least in winter.