Lauren Berns
Google
I loved this place. Had perfectly cooked branzino, lovely vegetables, a fabulous antipasto, and a nice little "while you wait" appetizer. And the price for that plus a espresso and a "punch" (see below), was 23€, an insane bargain from my perspective.
Very friendly, welcoming staff with good English. The menu is not printed and seems to change daily, so listen closely (or just ask them to choose for you - and *go with* whatever they bring). The changing menu is likely due it's proximity to the "pop-up" fresh vegetable and fish market which, at early lunchtime, hides the place somewhat. and, no doubt, to the changing menu and quality of the food.
As a solo diner at this family style place, I was seated at a table for six with another solo and two sets of friends (fine with me and turned into great fun). After lunch, at coffee time, one of my seat mates introduced me to the local specialty coffee called "Ponce Livornese" (Livorno punch): strong espresso, rum, a liqueur, plenty of sugar and a bit of lemon peel. Great, but, like true love, not for the faint of heart (h/t Avatar Meher Baba).
I can't imagine a better way to get a taste of the local flavor, in both senses of the phrase.