Via2r
Google
Thinking back to a wonderful stay at Pension Tokerau in 2017, we booked the same beach cottage again on fourth round-the world tour in 2019. Fakarava and Pension Tokerau is such a quiet and wonderful place to visit. Again we experienced the dream of a South Seas island not totally spoiled by tourism, and thus a place one would dream about in the long winter evenings in the Northern Hemisphere.||Greeted with leis at the airport, we were left alone, until the minibus was filled with what we thought were other tourists, but apparently they were connected to the pension in other ways. Anyway we got our small comfortable cottage, Hina, and were told that TV didn't work, which certainly didn't bother us, as everything else including with the ensuite bath was in order.||We had a wonderful dinner with Poisson Cru (marinated raw fish), a delightful dish, at least when prepared by Theresa, the soul of the pension while we stayed there. ||Gahina B. on the other hand who seemed to act as caretaker, was flitting to and fro, and it took some time to get her help in arranging the rental of two e-bikes from Fakarava Yacht Services. And what a service, Stephanie provided us with two new e-bikes with fully loaded batteries and we set off for the so-called PK 9 beach, which is about 15-16 kilometres from the pension. This is the perfect place to enjoy a day at the beach, a small white coral beach backed by coconut trees and wide expanses of warm transparent turquoise water slapping gently in the breeze. This is our idea of a tropical beach, not like the one seen in adverts showing perfectly manicured beaches, but a beach with a small pig running around eating from coconuts broken open, small crabs housed in shells crawling on the beach, and coconut trees of all shapes and sizes covering the ground with a confusion of coconuts and dry, rustling palm leaves. ||A short stay in the small town of Rotoava was also enjoyable, local sports games were taking place while we were there. The church is worth visiting and don't forget to see the stone reminding of the fate of people who had to be moved from their far off atoll during the French nuclear bomb tests. ||What wonderful evenings sitting at the porch in front of the cottage waiting for the sun to paint the far off horizon in fantastic colours, and then again enjoying Theresa's tasty dishes.||The only fly in the ointment being Gahina's decidedly familiar treatment of guests from somewhere else, leading to a sudden rearrangement of the tables with little regard to Theresa and everyone else. Annoying, but only a small blot on a fantastic place and an otherwise wonderful stay.