Fitzwilliam D.
Yelp
It's probably unfair to judge a patisserie based only on a few pastries. Plenty of great patisseries have the odd misfire, and on the other hand, plenty of average patisseries have the odd masterpiece. Now, the task becomes arduous with the selection Parisian Patisseries have: on average 20-30... and, there's just so much you can eat if you're not living in Paris. Still, I've now started to classify patisseries in two categories: those that are 1) pleasing in the moment, but ephemeral; 2) truly memorable.
Sadly, in my last visit to Paris I really didn't know where to place Laduree - indisputable institution that it is. There's truly excellent pastries like the La Fraise I had in Laduree Soho (strawberry shaped, coconut dacquoise biscuit, strawberry preserve and mousse). Then, there's execution that's really half-hearted, as can be expected given their expanding number of locations.
Take for example their famed Religieuse (Rose). By design, it's magnificent in what it promises: delicate choux pastry, exquisite rose crème, sugary fondant to emphasize the floral, and raspberries inside to counter with something acidic and fruity. In execution, for the one I had, the choux was a tad dry, there was no explosion of rose crème, and the fondant barely floral. Again, it's execution and not design - I know that. Process variability.
Similarly, I liked the other two pastries I tried, but didn't love them: The Mont Blanc agrumes (meringue, clementine marmalade, chestnut rum mousse, vanilla whipped cream, and candied chestnuts) and the Cheese cake cassis myrtille (shortbread, cheesecake cream, black currant and blue berry jam). I guess, I found the flavors subtle and nuanced, and not intense enough. But, one can admire the thought given to design.
Still, there's always the Fleur d'Orange and Cassis macarons to lift one's spirts at Laduree. They never disappoint.