Dzintra Dzenis
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L’Angelus du Canal
Oh my goodness....what an incredible little gem of a restaurant! The set up is ‘classic French bistro,’ with a bar in the center and square wooden tables aligned one against another on both sides of the room. Don't let the close seating worry you, as this is very common in Paris, and as the patrons are genuine and fun (true family vibe), chances are you will make new friends before the end of the evening! I did.
The father and son team work the front of the house interchangeably, to provide efficient, unpretentious and warm service to every customer. No question about the menu is nonsensical or silly, so whatever language you speak or additional description you may need, ask away, and your questions will be answered with courtesy and care.
The food is delicious, quintessential French cuisine with some touches of world influence here and there. Everything that comes from the kitchen is perfectly seasoned, prepared, and beautifully plated with modern flair. The dishes I’ve tried so far have been the ‘blanquette de veau,’ braised beef cheeks (like a boeuf bourguignon), ‘boudin du pays Basque,’ ‘foie gras poélé’….and the showstopper, ‘petits pots d’escargot de Bourgogne,’ (the house specialty since 1993).
I'm not quite certain how to describe the infamous escargot. Let's just say, I would rename them to, "Life Altering Escargot," as they are just that good.
From my experience, classic escargot served in shells can be awkward and messy to eat - and there never seems to be enough garlic butter for proper bread dipping! Here, the escargot (6 or 9 pieces) are served individually in tiny little ‘pots’ (ramequins) (with their own little spoon) nestled in the most abundant, flavorful and foamy garlic-herb butter you will ever taste. A slight tomato and herb finish at the bottom of each little ‘pot’ cuts through the richness of the butter, to create perfect balance. Like an edible lid, perched on top of each little ‘pot,’ a crisp and buttery crouton round adds the necessary finale crunch to the perfect mouthful.
I’m addicted. I’ve been to L’Angelus du Canal twice but will need to return for more!