Shannon B.
Yelp
In all things European travel, I defer to the expert advice of Rick Steves, and my visit to Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Lausanne was no different. This was (I believe) our family's 6th and final ancient church visited in as many days (the architecture! the art! the history!), and we'd already walked about a million miles during our whirlwind tour of the western half of Switzerland. This time, we avoided the glute-searing uphill approach by taking the Metro M2 over to Pont Bessieres and picking up the downhill part of Rick's "Old Lausanne" walking tour.
Lausanne's glorious gothic cathedral, which began construction in 1165, is the largest in Switzerland and has for centuries been a stop on various Christian pilgrimage routes. It is today mostly bare of decorations due to the Protestant Reformation's iconoclasm here in 1536, but there are some notable exceptions of medieval art surviving.
One example is the south portal (once the original entrance), known as the Painted Portal (1215-30), a sunny room (due to the modern windows enclosing the entry) which invites contemplation and study. Be sure to browse through the book there explaining the meaning of each figure in this story of the coronation of Mary, and look to see the last little slivers of the original surface colors. FYI, the other statues on the church exterior are also medieval originals.
The beautiful Rose Window also survived from the 13th century with only the central panel requiring restoration. The rose was a popular medieval representation of the universe and Lausanne's huge rose contains images representing the four seasons, four elements, four winds, four rivers of paradise, and the twelve labors of the months and signs of the zodiac.
The modern (2003) American-designed pipe organ is lovely - and enormous! My hope is that you'll be lucky as we were to hear it in use during your visit. We learned that it's the largest musical instrument in the country!
This church is today a member of the Evangelical Reform Church, a very strict Protestant sect in the style of Calvin (no dancing, no buckles), yet the cathedral is open and welcoming to all in a spirit of reconciliation. We observed quite a few Catholic pilgrims showing their respects to Notre Dame during our visit, or at least to the alcove where the golden statue of her once resided. At the table in front, you can see the symbols of the scallop shell, a message to pilgrims that they are on the right path.
The finale, of course, had to include climbing the 225 steps to the observation deck of one of the bell towers for the magnificent views of Lac Leman, the Alps, and the city itself. We were fortunate to have the entire place to ourselves during our November visit, and we were even up top when the noon bells began to ring! I'm only sad we didn't have the chance to hear the night watchman give his evening call from the tower. Maybe next time, Lausanne!
More info here: https://www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/en/Z5081/the-cathedral-of-lausanne