We O.
Yelp
An unassuming little restaurant, in a small street leading off the Boulevard Diderot, L'Encrier is well screened from the outside world with its half-veiled windows and modest exterior. During summer a few metal tables and chairs give space for the smokers, or those who prefer to indulge in the open air. So unremarkable from the street that you would probably not look twice.
Once through the very ordinary doorway, everything changes. The first thing you notice is the tall bar in the centre of the room, behind which is the working kitchen, in full view of the clientele. A very small but necessarily well-coordinated operation given the number of white-tunic'd chefs crammed into extremely limited working space.
The tables are small, classic wood in oak tones, with matching chairs. Comfortable enough for an extended lunch time and of dimensions to allow the right balance of intimacy / personal space. The eye is then taken to the walls, free of ornamentation apart from a couple of small blackboards displaying the current special menu and the wines of the week. An unusual dark brick, exposed to complement the plain flagged floor and the occasional hint of pale stonework, off-sets to perfection the high and evidently very ancient undulated ceiling, in pale slatted wood.
The greeting from who I take to be the restaurant owners is warm and enthusiastic, the same approach for every person who walks through the door. The two-man reception, or rather, one-woman-one-man reception, meeting and greeting and putting everyone at ease, whilst gathering up empties and efficiently directing new clients to vacant tables - of which there are usually very few - is a well-oiled machine which squeaks very little! A friendly quip, a smile or a wink for those who care to seek them out, belies the intense attention this particular table-waiting game requires. Bread for table three, water for number seven..... There are many years of experience behind this team; there is barely need to raise your hand before you know the attention you seek has been attracted.
The food is very French. The menu du jour typically has four starters and probably eight main courses, all depending on the availability of the fresh produce of the day. The quality is high, fresh, crispy salads and crusty bread to accompany the Terrine Aveyronnaise and the most marvellous garlic-sautéed potato slices to soak up the pink pepper sauce with the juicy onglet de boeuf. The taste buds are most satisfied at this point, so now to choose the dessert from the mouthwatering selection on the board. But how? The crème brulée can be recommended, a perfect end to a delicious meal. And the cost of this personal attention and first-class lunch? 15 euros. No wonder then that to be assured a seat you need to be there shortly after 12h00; less than five minutes after we sat down, the place was full. The constant stream of people escaping the workplace to indulge in a Friday lunchtime treat speaks for itself.
