Michele R.
Yelp
He was 23 years old on June 28, 1876 when he rode to the site and helped dig the shallow graves to bury rotting corpses of more than 250 of his 7th Cavalry brethren who died under Lt. Col. Custer's command on June 25 and 26 at the Little Big Horn.
Throughout his life he would be tortured by memories of the stench and sights of soldiers' bodies stripped and mutilated so that, in the belief of the victors, the fallen would not function in the afterlife. Had PTSD been an available diagnosis in those years he may have fit it.
In the last years of his life, after dementia set in before he died in his 90's, he would lean forward, point and shout, "They're COMING! SEE them? THERE!" To calm him, my grade school age mother and great-great grandmother would assure my great-great grandfather they did see the Sioux warriors.
My g-g grandmother, a couple of decades younger than her husband, would pass along these stories to me until she died in her late 90's. When I viewed the Little Big Horn Battlefield in June this year I thought of what my relative had seen 137 years earlier.
History comes alive here. My husband said the battlefield held a palpable sense of what terror must have been in that place on those two days in June 1876.
As heard in one of the Lakota Sioux warrior's oral history to his great grandson, the warrior made eye contact with a soldier as the soldier shot his horse in the head to use it as a breastplate. In the words of the warrior's great grandson, "The soldier's eyes said they knew he would not see another sun rise."
You could hear the catch in the voice of the teller of that tale just as my husband also caught his breath at hearing it. We all share this history together.
It helps to frame context to think about the US in 1876 and why the Little Big Horn defeat was shocking then and still studied now.
The nation was celebrating our Centennial. The Union had survived the gruesome Civil War in the prior decade. George Custer was a hero of that war, a veritable military rock star thought to be invincible. He was sent as part of Government effort to "fix the Sioux problem once and for all". Which meant to herd the Lakota, whose leaders had not signed the treaty to cede territory to the US Government, to a reservation or kill them as they stood in the way of westward expansion.
These are shameful things in the history of our great nation. This is one of them. It is easy to understand why Chief Crazy Horse and others wanted to protect their loved ones and way of life.
If you visit, tips follow:
1) PLAN ENOUGH TIME: At least two hours or as much as half a day if you're a history buff. Some of the Ranger talks are great.
2) GO EARLY IN THE DAY: Crowds can be large even in slower tourist times of year. The parking lot has limited capacity and so does the visitor center. By early afternoon you may find both full.
3) SEE THE DOCUMENTARY IN THE VISITOR CENTER: This National Parks facility is "running on fumes" for funding as one Ranger said and the room in which the film is shown is rustic and the screen isn't all that big. Still, it is a powerful 15-ish minute introduction.
4) VISIT CUSTER NATIONAL CEMETERY: Located next to the Visitor Center. Take the time to walk the paved paths among the resting places of people who served this country in the Armed Forces to current times, including Medal of Honor winners, or who were family members of frontier soldiers in isolated posts and civilian scouts, including Native Americans. Pick up a guide ($1) to learn more about some of the people buried there.
5) VISIT LAST STAND HILL: Walk uphill on a paved path from the visitor center to the spot where Custer's body was found. At this location there is also a tall monument inscribed with the names of soldiers who died at the battle that contains remains. Many of the quickly and shallowly buried bodies in 1876 were uncovered and scattered by animals and elements of nature within a couple of years. Those bones were ultimately collected along with still buried remains and interred in a single monument on the site. (Remains of Officers who died in the battle, including Custer's, were exhumed and moved to cemetaries in the East.) Sculpture dedicated to Native American warriors is also at this location.
6) WALK THROUGH THE BATTLEFIELD: Walk downhill on a path from the Visitor Center through some of the battlefield.
7) DRIVE THE BATTLEFIELD: The 4 mi. road to Reno-Bereen Battlefield has marble markers showing where bodies were found and help frame scope of the loss. Since 1999 red granite markers have been added to note where Native American warriors fell.
8) ACCESSIBILITY NOTES: a) ADA Parking in visitor center lot and visitor center is accessible by ramp. b) For those unable to make the uphill walk to Last Stand (paved but steep), there are a couple of spaces of ADA parking near that site and you can drive up and park.