Camelia N.
Yelp
A vineyard tour and wine tasting at Littorai's biodyanmic domaine on Gold Ridge Road, perfectly perched atop the green and rolling Sebastopol Hills, may well be the best adult fantasy class field trip - ever! You almost feel like they should issue each guest a pair of rubber boots, leather gloves, Carhartt barn jacket, and a wool stocking cap (in autumn or winter) or straw sun hat (in late spring and high summer) to appreciate fully the hands on, root to glass journey through the vines. Any traumatic childhood memories you might have of teacher-led forced marches to museums, national monuments, parks, farms, and factories will almost instantly be healed. You will never look at group learning the same way again.
Especially if you love organic gardening, wildlife conservation, and agricultural land preservation as much as you enjoy cool climate, Northern Californian grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, you and your closest friends will be thrilled by the immersive lesson in biodynamic farming and natural winemaking practices. It's like Montessori school for the wine lover with Wendell Berry on the reading list, but not Heidi Barrett. You will discover the many things besides grapevines that grow on a working wine estate: from herbs and plants that are dried and steeped to produce natural sprays and applications, to the sheep who graze the vineyard rows, to the cows who provide manure for composting, to the meadow grasses that will be made into hay for fodder to keep the operation running.
Add in homes for pollinating mason bees, owl boxes to keep rodents and gophers in check, oak and pine forests for protecting raptors and other edge dwelling creatures, and you've got all the makings of a Pete Seeger song. Where have all the flowers gone? Here, Pete! Here!!! They are all growing between the Pivot Vineyard's immaculate rows of trellised vines. Anytime you need extra help harvesting chamomile flowers for another calming herbal tea to apply to distressed vines, Ted, just give us a call. Who knew that agroecology could be so fun?
As far as the wine tasting portion of the group field trip goes, it actually makes places like Joseph Swan or Pellegrini seem like the lap of luxury. Bare bones does not even begin to capture the experience of tasting in the raw amidst the wine making tools of the trade. Its no-frills style evokes that of small, family-run domaines in Burgundy, where informal tastings might take place on a battered piece of plywood balanced on a pair of well weathered barrels. There are outdoor-style, infrared heaters set up in cooler months that can be turned on if requested, so you won't need to shiver and shake while you sip and swirl.
The wines you will taste will never be the same, as much of Littorai's production is small and highly allocated to wine club members and Michelin-starred restaurants. The exceptions are the Sonoma Coast Appellation series - barrel aged Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a lovely vin gris made from Pinot Noir grape juice - and an Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ("Les Larmes," meaning "Drops" or "Tears") crafted by blending from multiple vineyards (One Acre, Roman, Cerise, Savoy, Wendling). On any given day, you may get to taste a range of vineyard-designate and appellation series wines, but it would take multiple visits (or membership in the Littorai Vintner's Coastal Collection) to sample them all.
We tasted 6 wines on a January 2019 visit: 2016 Chardonnay from the B.A.Theriot and Platt Vineyards; a 2016 Sonoma Coast appellation series Pinot; and 2014 Pinot Noir from Theriot, Roman, and Platt. I fell for the two Platt Vineyard wines for their exquisite balance of fruit, flower, and earth, their silky tannins, integrated oak, and soft caress. These were juicy wines that made me salivate. They finished cleanly and left me wanting more. Since the Platt Vineyard recently was sold by the widow of the original owner, these wines are among the last of their kind; this fact may have accounted for the emotional tug that they had on my heartstrings. When we open them, we will offer a silent toast to time gone by.
The Theriot wines both struck me as ever so slightly off kilter, with some aromas and flavors more assertive than others - too much cedar and citrus in the '16 Chardonnay, a palate filling whiff of cracked peppercorn and drying, tannic roughness in the '14 Pinot. I didn't get rose petal, crushed violet, chopped herb, warming spice, or orchard fruit blossom, and I missed these familiar friends. It was like an orchestra where the horn section was playing too loudly to hear the strings, or where the percussion section wasn't entirely up to speed on a new composition. But I also had the sense that these wines, like a well conducted orchestra, would with time and patience find their perfect sound. All the more reason to revisit Littorai on another occasion: to see how these vibrant and wonderful things have grown, blossomed, rooted, composted, rested, aged, and changed.