Chris W.
Google
Walking into Locanda Verde in 2025 feels a bit like attending a high school reunion for the Cool Kids of 2009. The volume is still turned up to eleven, the room is still packed with the sort of energetic, golden-hued crowd that suggests something important is happening, and the ghost of Robert De Niro’s patronage still hovers in the rafters like a guardian angel of reservations.
But if the ambiance is still partying like it’s the Obama administration, the food seems to be suffering from a bit of a hangover.
We arrived ready to worship at the altar of Chef Andrew Carmellini’s urban Italian temple. And to be fair, the Sheep’s Milk Ricotta remains the restaurant’s security blanket. Served with that burnt orange toast, it is creamy, fluffy, and reliable—a reminder of why this place became a landmark to begin with. The Lamb Meatball Sliders also did their job: bite-sized punches of flavor that pair perfectly with a loud conversation and a glass of Nebbiolo.
However, once we moved past the "greatest hits" appetizers, the cracks in the veneer began to show.
The Lamb Chops Scottadito were the culinary equivalent of a shrug. For a dish whose name translates to "burned fingers" (implying they are so delicious you can't wait to grab them), these were safely fork-and-knife territory. They arrived looking uninspired, accompanied by a small, lonely triangle of what the menu calls "chickpea panelle" but what the palate registers as "sad, dry polenta." It felt like a dish going through the motions.
Similarly, the Black Shells Frutti di Mare—squid ink pasta that should smell like the ocean in the best way—missed the mark. You want "briny and bright"; we got "tired and murky." When seafood doesn't feel 100% fresh in a place charging Tribeca rents, the illusion of luxury dissolves pretty quickly.
We rounded things out with the Fire-Roasted Garlic Chicken and the Gnocchi, both of which were… fine. And that’s the problem. In a city where Italian dining is a blood sport, "fine" is the first step toward irrelevance.
The Verdict:
Locanda Verde has undeniably lost some of its luster. It is currently a restaurant coasting on its location and its legacy. If you want to feel the pulse of the city, drink good wine, and shout over the din in a beautiful room, it’s still a contender. But if you’re looking for a meal that haunts your dreams? You might be a decade too late.