Jonathan D.
Yelp
I have to admit that I was on the fence about eating here. I understood that a bunch of restaurant lists said it was excellent, but for some reason I've had this idea in my head for some years that Greek food wasn't all that interesting. I suspect that some mediocre meal back in the day may have been responsible, or possibly the ubiquitous sandwich shops that reduce Greek food to the gyro.
So...thank you, Mamakas Taverna, for showing me that Greek food can be absolutely delicious. And now, the meal.
I arrived a few minutes early for my bar seat, where I was ably attended to by a pair of friendly bartenders who also were well-versed on the menu. After a bit of a discussion, I began with Xifias, which was swordfish (think crudo) with pistachio milk, trout roe, cilantro, chili and seagrass. This dish was absolutely remarkable, and as good as everything else was, I think this one won the night.
They asked if I wanted my next dish, the lamb chops, right away, or whether I wanted a little pause. A little pause seemed like a good idea, though apparently the kitchen got backed up in the interim and the pause got a bit long in the tooth. But the kitchen sent out a spanakopita (phyllo with spinach, feta and a little honey), airy and delicious, as a way to tide me over until the lamb chops arrived. And arrive they did, four tender, meaty and perfectly cooked chops sitting atop tzatziki with a bit of bulgur (that was tabouli-like). While I've noticed a few reviews that said the food was salty--and certainly the lamb chops are assertively seasoned in a way that I would describe as salt-forward, much like at Philadelphia's iconic Israeli restaurant Zahav--I think the problem is that people are too used to underseasoned food.
For dessert, I opted for the baklava, which was definitely one of the best iterations of this dish that I've had. There were hints of cinnamon and cardamom, and together with the vanilla ice cream topping, it was just sweet enough without being cloying.
Admittedly, Mamakas Taverna--at least if you order the lamb--isn't a cheap meal. On the other hand, it's a great meal, and it's definitely caused me to rethink my views about Greek food.