Stephanie P.
Yelp
For whatever reason, the Museo Historical Provincial Marques de Sobremonte wasn't really highlighted in my travel guide, but it's a very cool Cordoba museum! So if it's not on your radar, and especially if you like history museums set in actual former residences, add this one to your list.
You can't see much from the outside, and they don't allow photos inside the building (only the outdoor spaces), so I don't have a lot of pictures to share. But when you walk in, it's a large mansion built around a central courtyard with a big pomegranate tree. You can duck in and out of the rooms through the interior doors or walk through from room to room. The walls are made of lime-washed and adobe, with colonial roof tiles, so it kind of has a "mission style" that reminded me a little of California missions.
The home belonged to Rafael de Sobremonte, 3rd Marquis of Sobremonte and Viceroy of the Rio de la Plata, who fought during the British invasion of Buenos Aires. Although there didn't seem to be English-language guided tours, there were laminated cards in most rooms in several languages that described the exhibits and their historical context. I would have liked to see a little more history about the Sobremonte family -- the cards were pretty general in explaining themes such as "women's daily life" or "slavery," not specifically referencing the former residents.
The museum is an interesting blend of luxury and primitive conditions. While they had beautifully elaborate silver and china, hand-carved tortoiseshell fans and heavy wooden bedsteads, they also apparently depended on indoor metal firepits to warm the bedrooms! They owned slaves, and you can go into the slaves' quarters, which have some examples of (replica?) leather and wood furniture and metalwork created by the slaves for the family's use. There's a second courtyard out back with a garden area and some large cannon-type guns, but again, not much explanation of why they're there or who used them.
Overall, an interesting glimpse into Argentina's colonial history, and the museum is artfully presented so that you almost feel that you're walking through a real family's home and they're just in another room. Depending on your interest in clothing and home decor, you can spend a couple of hours here looking through all the rooms on two floors and the outer buildings.
One final note: we happened to go on a Wednesday and admission was free. I'm not sure if that's every Wednesday or one day out of the month, but it's worth looking into if you happen to be in town on a Wednesday!