Miku Fan U.
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I had the joy to again stay in the Matsudaya Hotel of Yudaonsen last month. I had previously stayed here once before, during the corona disaster of 2022.
What a joy Matsudaya is to stay at! First off, though the rooms are slightly "dated", mine was impeccably clean, with an incredible view of the onsen complex and Yudaonsen city. On this particular stay, I had a "western style" room, which featured a standard western bed, but surrounded by tatami floor. The tatami was fresh and still soft. I give the room "4 stars" only because it took me 10 minutes to hunt down the light switches, placed in truly inconspicuous spots in the room! APA hotels have the lock on convenient light switches! But the rest of the room was wonderful, and again, spotlessly clean and perfectly presented to me. Yukata were provided, as well as a wonderfully stocked bathroom, complete with real wood soaking tub.
For me, what makes Matsudaya deserve a "5 star" is the hotel staff - from the moment I was greeted at the door, to the final settling of the bill, the staff spoke to me and treated me as if I were the Emperor (who, incidentally, has stayed at Matsudaya more than a few times). The wonderful desk staff, the staff in the restaurant, the wonderful concierge and gift store manager Mikiko-san - they were all simply incredible, and made my stay at the Matsudaya a truly memorable experience.
However, I love onsen, and the Matsudaya onsen complex is simply incredible (see my photos from 2022). The onsen water is a perfect 41 degrees C, and the onsen buildings and roten-buru area are all different and many are historically significant to the Yudaonsen area. I felt like a king as I wandered through the onsen areas, jumping in and out of all of them for a good long soak. The view out to the Japanese garden is one of the best views I have ever had from an onsen pool.
Then there's the original Meiji era wandering-style Japanese garden inside the walls of Matsudaya. What can I say? It's perfect. And impeccably maintained by a trove of gardeners. Every view through the garden's path provides a unique view of the garden and the ryokan. IMO, Matsudaya's garden rivals any Japanese garden I've seen in Kyoto. The Nishikigoi koi are old, big, and frisky. They swim in hot ONSEN water, that bubbles up up up and over a 15 foot tall waterfall into the garden, forming a wandering stream. The staff allowed me to touch one of the golden koi "for prosperity and good fortune". It works for me! Sweet and helpful Mikiko-san provided all guests with koi food in little wooden bento boxes.
Yeah, so if you crave an authentic Japanese ryokan, complete with a "Meiji history room", fantastic kaiseki food, amazing onsen water, a Japanese garden you will never forget, AND incredible and helpful staff, then Matsudaya is a great choice for you - and so close really to Hiroshima Station too! Shin-Yamaguchi -> Yudaonsen station via the Yamaguchi line. less than 2 hours. Simple.
Other quick notes: English is not widely spoken here, but the fantastic concierge Mikiko-san does speak English, so lean on her. Location is about 10 minutes from Yudaonsen eki walking. Centrally located to all restaurants in the smallish Yudaonsen city. A very walkable city.
Also, note, on busy weekend and holiday dates, a solo traveler will have to be priced as "two people" to reserve a room. But.... check out my photos, especially from 2022:
