Jeremy Edmunds
Google
The bright green bottle of Stella Artois 0.0% appears incongruous in Maverick's sophisticated setting, but it's emblematic of the restaurant's inclusive approach. Like the alcohol-free beer, Maverick Texas Brasserie defies easy categorization—neither fully French nor completely Texan, but rather a delightful hybrid that draws from both traditions.
Opened in February 2018 by restaurant veteran Peter Selig (of Biga and Acenar fame) along with partners Chris Carlson and Miguel Ardid, Maverick occupies a thoughtfully renovated 8,500-square-foot historic building in San Antonio's artsy Southtown district. The space successfully balances industrial elements—exposed brick, concrete floors, and visible ceiling infrastructure—with warm touches like cane-back chairs and navy banquettes.
The restaurant's motto, "Make Your Own Rules," perfectly captures its approach to French brasserie cuisine. Rather than slavishly recreating Parisian classics, Chef Ed Ebert adapts French techniques to Texas sensibilities and ingredients. The result is both familiar and surprising.
Most dishes emerge from a wood-fired grill that imparts distinctive pecan and oak notes. The pork schnitzel—massive, golden-brown, and topped with a perfectly fried egg—exemplifies the kitchen's ability to execute with precision while adding Texas-sized generosity. Their burger, featuring house-ground beef cooked precisely to temperature and served with impeccable fries, rivals any in the city. Vegetarians aren't afterthoughts here; a salad of mixed greens with blackberries, spiced nuts and crumbled cheese demonstrates thoughtful composition.
Those seeking classic French fare will find excellent escargot bathed in a garlic-herb cream that begs to be sopped up with the accompanying crusty bread. The restaurant's daily-changing plat du jour specials ($35 for three courses) offer outstanding value and a constantly refreshed menu.
The beverage program is equally thoughtful. An exceptional wine list emphasizes French regions without intimidation, offering both splurge-worthy bottles and accessible options. The cocktail menu features creative options like the Blackberry Paradis, which balances fruit with unexpected spice. Perhaps most impressively, non-drinkers are treated with respect, as evidenced by the premium non-alcoholic beer options.
Service strikes the ideal balance between professionalism and Texas friendliness. Waitstaff navigate the dining room efficiently, water glasses never reach empty, and recommendations are offered with genuine enthusiasm rather than upselling pressure. The staff's knowledge of both the menu and the restaurant's concept reflects thorough training.
The restaurant's various spaces accommodate different dining moods. The front bar and dining area buzzes with energy, making it ideal for people-watching. A more intimate middle dining room offers a quieter experience, while the covered patio with its wicker seating and abundant greenery creates a garden-like atmosphere. Private spaces accommodate everything from intimate gatherings to events for up to 250 guests.
Despite its upscale atmosphere, Maverick maintains reasonable prices, with most mains between $20-35. The daily happy hour (4-6pm) and $35 plat du jour specials offer particularly good value.
In a city known for Tex-Mex and barbecue, Maverick Texas Brasserie carves out a unique culinary identity—French-inspired but distinctly Texan, sophisticated but unpretentious. It's a restaurant that encourages diners to linger, whether over a three-course dinner or simply a glass of wine and an appetizer at the bar. Like its namesake, it breaks conventions while creating something that feels both novel and enduring.