Lilly Gallis
Google
When location is just not enough.
I had high expectations for Mercato at the Four Seasons, given the location and the fact that it's part of the Four Seasons brand. Unfortunately, the experience did not meet those expectations.
First, we were told by the staff that Chef Maggie Tabakaki prefers "family style" dining, with dishes meant to be shared in the middle of the table. We did find this weird for a table of two with very different and distinct tastes and found ourselves struggling to figure out dishes that we'd both enjoy, so not to disappoint the chef or frowned upon by whoever took our order.
Then came the bread basket. Four pre-made bread rolls served as part of the couvert were definetely not something I expected at a restaurant of this caliber, when even local trattorias serve artisanal bread nowadays. The oil served alongside was certainly not EVOO and the tomato dip tasted like it came straight from a can. They were left aside, a total waste.
Then came the Caprese salad with 'grilled peach', which proved a huge disappointment. It was simply a burrata placed on pesto with baby arugula on top, a good amount of prosciutto on the side and a tiny piece of raw nectarine hidden among the ingredients. The grilled peach that had our mouths watering when we were ordering was nowhere to be seen. The plate was left on our table and we had to serve it ourselves, while we anticipated the waiter to offer to serve it for us. In addition, we had to serve it with our forks, since no serving cutlery was provided, trying not to spill the arugula everywhere on the table. With the - what would have been juicy, tasty, caramelised peaches - missing, the dish fell flat, bland, underwhelming, just some ingredients thrown on a plate, definitely not worth the price. We did point it out to our waiter who politely apologised and withdrew the nectarine to inform the kitchen staff but we were not offered a replacement or some other gesture of compensation.
Next came the tagliata, which arrived with no side dish. Part of the meat was so tough that we struggled to chew through it. About a quarter of it remained on the plate after we had chewed it as best as we could. Obviously, no-one from the kitchen staff had bothered to clean it off its cartilage. What a waste of 42 euros!
The crab-onara was decent and tasty, with a generous amount of crab.
The service was quick and polite, which was definitely a highlight of the evening. Unfortunately, it wasn't enough to save the experience and the location, while stunning, can’t make up for the overall lack of attention to detail in both the food and the atmosphere (nouveau-riche Kardashian-style people at the table next to us were loudly FaceTiming their friends from across the Atlantic during the entire dinner, further spoiling the experience).
I would suggest to chef Maggie to keep an eye on how the (quite cliche) menu she has devised is realised by her brigade every now and then. I won't be seeking her next appointment.
We paid 160 euros for a salad, a pasta, a meat dish, and 2 drinks, one being a regular g&t (not premium) and the other a simple mocktail. All in all, an over-rated restaurant, where I won’t be returning, and I cannot recommend.