Ted R.
Yelp
This beautiful, ancient former chapel is lined with gorgeous tiles appropriate to the holy experience you will enjoy there. Mesa de Frades was the best of all the Fado houses I experienced in Lisboa. No, the food wasn't amazing. Only pretty good. No, the wine isn't great, but it flows freely and they'll bring you carafe after carafe. No, each and every singer wasn't amazing. But the camradere...simply wonderful. The range of fadistas was delightful - from teens, getting their feet wet and learning to control their instrument, to well aged singers in their sixties and seventies, making up for what they had lost vocally with what they had gained in life experience. And in the middle, incredibly talented singers in the prime of their career. Unlike most of the other Fado houses, it wasn't about the tourists. Instead, there are only so many tables and you're sitting in the midst of the singers. During the breaks between sets, you can share a glass of wine with them out front. We got to hang out with the remarkable Pedro Moutinho! I was told by many (and confirmed at the Museo de Fado) that all of the greatest fadistas performed here at some point in their careers, including the late, great Amalia Rodrigues.
A Spanish friend suggested getting here at 9:30, to dine and secure a good table, and to not worry when the singers showed up very late because the singing would go well into the night. He was so right. As we finished our meal, they closed the doors, moved a few tables around and the singing began. At 2am, they barred the doors and brought out more carafes of wine for all who wanted to stay. The wine poured and the music flowed until 4am. One of the most magical nights of music I've had anywhere in the world!