Ben N.
Yelp
We spent the better part of a nine-day New Mexico trip in the Santa Fe area, which obviously has a dining reputation that far outstrips that city's small size.
But the single best dining experience of the trip was, without question, at Mesa Provisions in Albuquerque.
Overall, Mesa ran up the score in just about every restaurant category: food (by far the most important, of course), service, atmosphere, etc.
Like so many 21st-century higher-end restaurants, Mesa Provisions lends itself to sharing smaller plates of food. In such places, that allows folks like the wife and me, who like pretty much everything, to double the variety we'd otherwise get from a menu. And the kitchen here manages that difficult balancing act of creating dishes that feature a wildly different set of flavor profiles that are still unified by common threads like technique (here, purees are big as a base for dishes) or plating style or ingredients.
We started off with the Beet & Orange Salad and the Charred Cabbage. Mesa has a meat-heavy menu, but the chef, Steve Riley, is a wizard with vegetables. The salad was delicious, but the cabbage dish, the flavor profile of which is hard to describe but had some Sichuan elements to it, was the best veg dish I can recall having in a *long* time--tremendous but balanced flavors as well as great textural contrasts.
Meat dishes--pork belly, lamb meatballs, and beef cheeks--were superb as well. The lamb meatballs were heavily Middle Eatern-influenced and explosively flavorful (a couple of tiny quibbles: the meatballs might have been just a teensy bit over, and the dish as a whole was *extremely* garlicly (and I like garlic a lot)), the pork belly the most Southwest-oriented item of the night, and the beef cheeks achieving some Central-Europe-style comfort-food satisfaction. Very different dishes, but all clearly the product of a singular culinary mind. All three were excellent.
Everything was beautifully plated and wildly colorful--a feast for the eyes, too.
A simple bowl of peach ice cream closed it out wonderfully.
The lead server, who I think was Maddie, couldn't have been better: attentive throughout the meal without being officious, seemingly sincerely happy to help with lining up the dishes for us, recommending a wine or beer and offering tastes (another tiny quibble: a few cocktails would be nice), pacing everything smoothly, and so on. A team effort, though--everybody was welcoming and pleasant. Pretty sure the chef himself brought out a couple of the plates--I always like when a chef humbly does that without calling attention to himself.
Mesa Provisions doesn't shoot too high with the atmosphere and decor--it's warm, spacious enough, and pleasantly lit--generally perfect for the relaxed, upscale-casual vision here. And it's difficult to believe it's only two years old--it has the feel of a longtime neighborhood classic.
This whole experience clocked in at $150, tax and tip included, a great value in 2023.
No-brainer five-star review, and I don't write a whole bunch of them.