Eric M.
Yelp
Now that I have time, I'm going to leave a proper review of Meti's.
Metsi's is a new Italian restaurant from chef and restauranteur BJ Lieberman - known in Columbus for Ginger Rabbit and Chapman's Eat Market, and previously Hiraeth which occupied the same location that Metsi's does now.
We've been around a bit and while we have yet to make it to Ginger Rabbit (shameful I know) we have eaten at Chapman's a number of times and had visited Hiraeth on opening weekend as we did Metsi's at the time of this review. So I think we've had some time to get acquainted with Mr. Lieberman and his style of food, and as a couple lucky enough to venture to a lot of great restaurants, we have a frame of reference for comparison.
Now, the first thing I want to say is that I am by no means an expert, or even an amateur when it comes to good Italian food. I don't have a grandma's home cooking to compare cacio e pepe recipes, and often times when thinking "where should we grab dinner" the first thing that comes to mind isn't a Olive Garden, but I do appreciate classic cuisine, great attempts at nailing down the essence of a dish, and authenticity as far as it one can convincingly pull the wool over my eyes.
Caveat aside here, I want to comment on three specific areas of Metsi's and leave it to you to make the venture yourself - which I would highly recommend.
The first area to discuss is the food. It's pretty great.
We ordered the sourdough focaccia and wood-fired artichoke for appetizers. Both were supremely tasty, though the sourdough focaccia I think hits the mark better than the artichoke. I am not sure if I have much experience with artichoke, but my impression was - this is great, but the story our waitress told us, which was a good one, left me wanting something more artichoke flavored? Maybe I was expecting to take a bit and close my eyes and imagine myself in an artichoke field in sunny Italy? If so, I don't think the dish hit that mark, but I see potential. A bit of pleasant pepper heat, though.
We skipped salad and went straight to the cacio e pepe and eggplant parmesan for our pasta and entree.
For me, the cacio e pepe was fantastic. It, and I mean this in a good way, tasted a bit like the heavily fresh peppered boxed macaroni and cheese I make at home, which is one of my most guilty pleasures. I can imagine Italian grandmas and grandkids eating this. A+
The eggplant parmesan was great as well. Nicely crusted, fantastic tomato sauce, and the angel hair pasta was cooked perfectly. We really enjoyed this dish.
For desert we enjoyed the almond and blueberry cake and the strawberry panna cotta. Well, my wife enjoyed the panna cotta. I don't care for strawberries. But the texture and flavor were top notch. The cake was slightly dryer than I had hoped but maybe that's more authentic? Someone can enlighten me.
The second main area I want to talk about, and this is partially for Mr. Lieberman if he is a masochist and read Yelp reviews, is the physical space of the restaurant.
To me, the top floor of the restaurant just kind of doesn't exist. I don't know what it is about the different styles, but I had the same concern with Hiraeth. When you book at the chef's counter, and you should, you're in London or New York or Argentina or something. Mr. Lieberman is right there running the kitchen, the ambiance is oozing with sophistication. The wood fired stove, "heard chef!", the glassware, all of it top notch and what I would expect out of a good Michelin restaurant.
I think that the food tastes much better downstairs. I wouldn't consider eating the same food upstairs. That's kind of a problem, I think, long term. Especially given that the location of the restaurant is a little weird anyway. Perhaps the upstairs could be remodeled to be a bottle shop for Italian wine? What's the vision here?
The last area I want to comment on is the drink menu.
I just think that all of the wines, red, white, pink, or sparkling should be Italian. I'm a bit surprised there wasn't a wine list, actually. Though there were plenty of bottles to choose from. Given the ambiance of the chef's counter it just seems like that should be true. I'm not sure. Maybe my expectations are just wrong here.
For the aperitif's that are offered, I can't off the top of my head recall the term used, but in the menu there are a number of cordials, like compari. Since I don't know what those are, it would have been nice to have a short description. Maybe even a pairing/recommendation.
I do like the wine by the glass menu layout - it's just "white" or "red", or 3 different types of sparkling wines. That takes away from decision fatigue when trying to decide on an aperitif.
Overall - I'm really excited to see where this goes, and look forward to swinging by again. There were some delicious looking dishes coming out of the kitchen that we must try (looking at you branzino), and those are best enjoyed at the chef's counter.
Cheers!