Jackie McMillan
Google
(3.5 stars)
With grey days regularly punctuating this summer it pays to have some wet weather plans. The Art Gallery of NSW has your back with the Cao Fei dining package ($99), which combines an exhibition pass (normally $35) with a banquet lunch at MOD. Dining. It’s up to you whether you view art then eat, or eat then view art. Either way you pick up your exhibition tickets at the airy restaurant, with the colourful Chinese artist’s film-focused immersive exhibition located right underneath it. We chose to see art first, so entered the minimalist restaurant space dominated by glass windows letting in the epic view, with images a retro movie cinema in full saturated colour dancing in our heads.
The 80-seater is now mod. Asian with its menu created by Nepalese chef, Sushil Aryal (ex-Miss Pearl Bar + Dining in Melbourne). The banquet one menu (normally $69) begins quickly, with dishes landing two at a time. Crisp candied eggplant batons seasoned with lao gan chili, white pepper, and flash-fried Thai basil are fun but too sweet; the accompanying raw tuna a little flavourless despite a lift from yuzu kosho, spring onion oil, pickled chilli and seaweed crisps.
The short list of Aussie wines is available in 150 or 250ml pours, so tell the bevy of staff how full you like your tumbler. Satay chicken thigh skewers on a bed of crisp naturally sweet cabbage and a middling satay sauce went okay with the 2023 Pawn Wine Co. Grüner Veltliner ($17/150ml). The acidity of the 2023 Yangarra Rosé ($29/250ml) needs more to work against, coming into its own with the closing course of char siu pork. It’s a generous portion of sliced pork collar paired with burnt pineapple nuoc mam sauce and a splash of chargrilled lemon eaten over rice with an accompanying salad of cucumber and pickled morning glory. Along with a pair of (very loosely) Thai fish cakes served for two people with three cos lettuce wraps (seriously: why not four?) it’s a substantial if not awe-inspiring lunch. But hey, awe is where the art comes in.