Kristen T.
Google
Detailed Kazbek 2024 summit expedition trip report.
Our expedition, organized by Elamus Pluss, consisted of 12 members: two guides, ten well-prepared climbers. Each participant had undergone extensive six-month training and/or had prior high-altitude experience. We carried all our gear, including food, tents, and equipment (backpacks15-25 kg, no horses used).
Day 1 (July 4):
Riga (11pm) -> Tbilisi (4:45am) flight.
Day 2 (July 5):
After landing, picked up by a 20-seater bus at 5:00 am, heading straight to Stepantsminda. Arrived by 9:00 am. The morning was spent preparing for the climb—buying gas, snacks, renting additional equipment. Checked into the Paramount Hotel at 1:00 pm. The hotel, which has its own Delica (6-seater bus), arranged transport to the Trinity Church for 60 lari. After some rest, we held a group meeting in the evening to discuss the expedition plan and distribute group equipment. Dinner at Cozy Corner, night ended with packing and early sleep.
Day 3 (July 6):
8:00 am breakfast, we took Delicas to the Trinity Church and began our hike at 9:57 am. The trail to the 3000m camp took approximately 4 hours and 50 minutes, following a work-rest rhythm of 50 minutes of walking + 10 min of rest, with some additional breaks as needed. We arrived just in time to set up our tents before the rain started. The 3000m camp now has two huts: Altihut and the newer Alpine Hut Deka, which is closer to the tent area. Deka offers a cozy sitting area with a fireplace, and amenities like beer (15 lari) and overnight stays (150 lari). Tent campers can use the facilities if they make purchases at the bar. Evening spent packing for the next day and went to bed early.
Day 4 (July 7):
Woke up at 6:45 am and began our hike to the Bethlem camp (3653m) at 8:09 am, arriving at 1:30 pm after a 5-hour, 20-minute trek covering 4.8 km and 700 meters of altitude gain. That evening, we decided to reduce our stay at Meteo camp from four nights to three due to a favorable earlier weather window. Group’s health was strong.
Day 5 (July 8):
The day was dedicated to glacier and self-arrest training on the Meteo camp slope from 10:00 to 11:30 am. In the evening, check-in meeting at 7:00 pm to monitor group health, measure SpO2 levels, and assess altitude sickness symptoms. Also discussed summit day plan, ensuring everyone was well-prepared.
Day 6 (July 9):
Summit day began at midnight. We gathered at the Meteo well, and started the ascent at 1:08 am. Assistant was the pointman, maintaining a steady pace with a heart rate target of 140 bpm. One member turned back early due to the fast pace, as per our agreement to make a decision before reaching the glacier.
Here’s a breakdown of our times and distances:
• To White Cross: 35 minutes
• To 3000 altitude meters: 1h 15min
• To 4000m: 1h 25min
• Glacier equipment on at 4250m: 2h 20min
• To 4500m: 3h 55min, covering 5.6km
• To 4650m: 5h, covering 6.2km
• To 4800m: 6h 05min, covering 6.3km
• To 4850m (peak plateau, Russian-Georgian border): 6h 30min
SUMMIT at 8:40 am after a 7.5-hour climb, with 11/12 members making it to the top. The final section, though steep with a 40-degree incline, was manageable due to 20-30 cm of fresh snow, which made for easy steps. The conditions were safe, no need for extra ropes or belaying. We spent 20 minutes at the summit, enjoying clear skies before descending. Fog and clouds rolled in just as we started down, making the snow mushy. We returned to Meteo camp by 12:45 pm, completing the summit round trip in under 12 hours. Fatigue set in, with two members showing strong symptoms of altitude sickness, but all recovered after resting.
Day 7 (July 10):
We began our descent at 8:40 am in rainy conditions (muddy terrain) especially for those without walking poles. We crossed the glacier with just crampons.
We arrived at the Trinity Church parking lot by 1:00 pm, where our bus was already waiting to take us back.
