Reive D.
Yelp
I've always said that if I could only eat one cuisine the rest of my life it would be either Indian or Mexican. Why do I open this review that way? So you'll know what sort of praise it is when I say that, hands down, Mumbai Local is my new favorite Indian restaurant in Vancouver. In fact it's shot to the top of my favorite restaurants in Vancouver list!
I'd heard the restaurant described as one that serves Mumbai street food but I can only imagine that this is street food elevated, as frankly I've eaten in far pricier and more "upscale" restaurants that weren't half as delicious or any better plated.
My dinner companion and I are sharers so we went with one main and a variety appetizers, eating sort of tapas style. We began with the Chaat Sampler with two each of the three various Chaat Mumbai Local serves. Each of them burst with flavor and was a revelation. From the first bite (and you consume each in one large bite rather than risk making a mess) there was the promise of something special. By the time I'd finished the third I was supremely confident the entire meal was going to deliver on that promise.
Next up were the Pravns Rava Fry. You get six prawns in total, and while I'd have delighted in these in just about any other restaurant, they were the low point of the meal. Don't get me wrong, they were exactly as promised and delicious, but these breaded prawns were something I might be able to get elsewhere. The accompanying citrus kokum (I want to call it salsa, for lack of a better description) and the mint yogurt complemented it nicely. I ate one prawn without any accompaniment for comparison, and wished I'd had the good sense to smear it as I had the other two I had. When I said this was the "low point of the meal" I meant that everything else amazed. This was merely really good. At more than a few other restaurants in the neighbourhood something this good would have been the standout of the meal!
The main we decided to split was the Kheema Pav, minced goat meat with whole spices, green peas, egg yolk, onion and "pav." The word curry appears nowhere on the Mumbai Local menu, but this was an epitome of the dish. Often the curry dishes at restaurants are a bright but monochrome, with the ingredients identifiable most easily by shape before they're consumed. But rather than coming all mixed as we're used to, each of the ingredients here occupied a clear space in the bowl. Even as I swirled it all together before we dug in I could appreciate just what had gone into the meal in a way I would not have had we not seen the meal in it's slightly deconstructed form.
The final dish to arrive at our table, excepting desert, was the Chicken Tikka Kebab. We'd been warned this would take longer than the rest of our meal, and it worth the wait. Too often chicken kebabs arrive just slightly dryer than they should be, but these were moist, succulent, and flavorful. Though it was clear we'd ordered more than enough food for two already I was still tempted to get another kebab, and frankly it was only time constraints (it would have been another 15 minutes or more) that reigned me in.
Their online menu doesn't list their deserts, but I can tell you we had two. The ice cream over rose milk was delicious, but SWEET, and yes, the all capitalization is required. While enjoyable it was a good thing two of us were splitting it as neither would have been able to finish it on our own. The other desert we had was a sort of cake with a mango sauce, pistachio and peanut. It's a desert worth dropping in for all on its own.
Finally, I should mention that we both opened and closed our experience with their turmeric milk. This is a steamed milk that came in espresso sized cups, and in addition to the turmeric also contained a variety of other spices. I don't know that I could put my name to them, though a few fronds of saffron made that taste all the more identifiable. I can heartily recommend it, and if on a future visit I can persuade the chef to part with its particular recipe I'll be trying to prepare it regularly at home. I've tried two recipes found on the internet already, and neither compared.
All in all five stars. Even saying that I feel like I should be going back and adjusting some of my other starred reviews down--Mumbai Local was one of my best dining out experiences in years, and hands down my best one of 2020. I can't wait to go back!