John Q. P.
Yelp
Cultural History with a Dose of Surrealism
The curators of this museum have produced a complex mix of cultural history and surrealism.
Historically, the museum celebrates the role of hunting in French history. This is significant, as hunting is an important marker of the aristocracy and landed gentry, so these artistic representations are statements of class standing. What this means is that there are lot of pictures of horses, hounds, pheasants, and foxes. All well and good.
As you go through the museum, however, it dawns on you that there is more going on. I would compare it to eating some kind of hallucinogenic drug and having its effects slowly kick in. The museum is more than just another museum.
You wander into this one room with a bunch of stuffed trophy animals. Fine; there is a big bear and some ferocious stuffed tigers or mountain cats. Then as you walk around you hear the sound of deep grunts and snarls of some really big animals. A little scary, really. It reminds you that when living those animals were very big and very ferocious. I wouldn't want to confront one in the forest. The room gets weirder, however. As you complete your tour of the animals and start to head out, you notice that the mounted boar's head high on the wall seems to be moving. Its mouth moves and its eyes roll as it grunts. It doesn't look real, but it isn't ridiculous either. Very strange. What was in that brownie I ate?
Then it's off to more paintings of pheasants and a display of old hunting rifles.
But a small, dimly-lit side room beckons. An owl's head mounted on feathery shoulders stares down at you. Methinks this is not just another trophy mounting; it is more of an animal spirit, and the beady owl eyes are not at all human. It is a bit otherworldly, and not in a friendly way. Looking up at the ceiling, there are all kinds of owl heads up there. The darkness of this little room feels even darker. And then you notice that the framed painting on the wall, which portrays some kind of hunting party, differs from the other paintings in the museum. Here a pile of naked ladies writhing "sur l'herbe" is the object of aggressive, leering attention of forest creatures (kind of like centaurs, but there is probably a more accurate word.) More like Sabine women than cucumber-sandwich eaters. I am thinking that there is a dark side to Nature, too. This dark side exerts its force on men and women, a pagan, inhuman, bestial force which draws us into the dark forest. Wow.
But wait, there's more!
In a second dark little room, the figure of a man is behind mesh wire. He is made of dark bark and looks convincingly like half-man and half-tree. The lighting is a bit gothic, and I don't recall that he had a face. This being a European museum, the man is naked, and his man-parts are right there, with a roll of bark leaving no doubt that this creature is male. No problem, we have all seen Michelangelo's David. But wait, there is something different here. That roll of bark - it seems to be pointing up, not hanging down. Nature, uninhibited, right there. Not only is this man-creature creepy, he's got something he wants to share with you. One should keep one's virgin daughter from going into the room unaccompanied, just in case that bark man comes alive.
What this museum says to me is that the forest and the animals are more than trophies and class signifiers. They partake of a deep, dark world of spirits and forces and temptations that touch our humanity in ways that we may deny or may have forgotten but which nonetheless still resonates. That museum offers a glimpse in the deep darkness of the forest.
P.S. If you liked this museum, you might like:
"The Beast" ("La bete"), a 1975 French erotic fantasy horror film by Walerian Borowczyk.