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Skrip, Brac’s oldest settlement, stretching back approximately 3,000 years, crowns the Island of Brac in Croatia. Its Parish Church of St. Helen of the Cross, Kastel Cerineo, and the Muzej otoka Braca embody its religious, financial, artistic, and cultural heritage..
The island’s history is marked by frequent changes in rulership. Before Roman conquest, Illyrian tribes settled at a safe distance above Brac’s seafronts, where pirates were known to disrupt and destroy vulnerable inhabitants. However, the Illyrians were not always innocent victims as they themselves were often guilty of pillaging and disrupting peace.
After the decline of the Roman Empire, the region experienced various changes: Slavic settlement, periods of Byzantine, Hungarian, Venetian, Austrian/Austro-Hungarian, and French rule during the Napoleonic Wars. In the 20th century, it became part of Yugoslavia, and now, modern Croatia. With the breakup of Yugoslavia in the 1990s, Brac became part of the independent Republic of Croatia, a sensitive topic to this day.
My visit to Skrip was one of the most mystical I've had. The very air whispers tales of power, religion, and unshakeable faith. Though the human ear strains to hear, we must settle into the mystery that abides: our inability to receive the multitude of stories coming in. They arrive as if transmitted from thousands of years all at once, each one canceling out the next.
Historically, humans have built places of worship in spiritually significant locations. Rounding the right side of St. Helen’s church, a wave of awe stole my breath, the weight of 3,000 years of devotion settling upon me. I wondered who those people were, whose strength of faith had created this palpable vortex of spiritual power. The energy of Skrip remains, an enigma trapped in ancient stone. It is a place that leaves one pondering faith's mysteries, and wondering how to tap into this force of enduring faith in the Father, Son, and Holy Spirit.
