Poushalee D.
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When Condé Nast Traveller ranked NAVU #9 on its Top Restaurants in India list, I knew it was only a matter of time before I made my way there again. Naturally, a Sunday night dinner reservation felt inevitable.
Finding the restaurant required a tiny bit of patience, as parts of the building are still under construction, but the security staff kindly guided me through, and soon I was standing at the entrance of a space that feels noticeably more expansive than NAVU’s earlier Domlur avatar. The new restaurant opens up beautifully — airy, refined, and thoughtfully designed without feeling intimidating.
As a solo diner, I was offered a choice between a table and the bar (currently awaiting its alcohol license). Choosing the bar turned out to be perfect — the team made sure I felt completely at ease, striking that rare balance between attentiveness and allowing space.
I began with their celebrated Mulberry Shrub Soda, freshly carbonated right in front of me. Bright, tangy, and deeply refreshing, it carried layers of tart berry acidity balanced by gentle sweetness and a faint fermented complexity typical of a good shrub. NAVU follows a strict no-garnish policy, meaning drinks arrive exactly as intended — no theatrics, no distractions, just pure flavour. It’s a philosophy that quietly reflects the restaurant’s overall ethos: let ingredients speak for themselves.
From the Meat Small Plates, I ordered the Pissaladière and the NAVU Lamb Chops. The Pissaladière — cured sardines laid over pillowy brioche with olive tapenade and an unforgettable tomato jam — was an absolute triumph. Briny, buttery, sweet, and umami-rich in perfect harmony, it was the kind of opening bite that immediately raises expectations for the rest of the meal.
The lamb chops arrived beautifully cooked, leaning slightly toward rare — something the carnivore in me thoroughly appreciated. Juicy, tender, and deeply flavourful, the accompanying hot sauce added heat and brightness without overwhelming the meat’s natural richness.
By this time, I ordered the Passionfruit Soda. Sweeter in profile but still well-balanced, it brought tropical acidity, citrus brightness, and a subtle floral note that lingered gently on the palate. Again, served without garnish, the drink felt clean, honest, and refreshingly confident.
From the Big Plates, I chose the Poached Fish and the Prawn & Chorizo Gnocchi, both arriving as visual works of art. The poached sea bass was exceptional — delicate, pristine, and tasting almost of the sea itself. Served with potatoes, lentils, and clams in a fragrant fennel sauce, the dish layered comfort with sophistication. The sweetness of the clams and warmth of fennel created remarkable depth, and abandoning cutlery to enjoy the clams by hand felt entirely justified.
The Prawn & Chorizo Gnocchi followed with vibrant energy. Pillowy potato gnocchi absorbed the smoky richness of chorizo and the sweetness of red pepper extract, while prawns added succulence. I did wish for slightly more quantity, but the bold flavours and perfectly balanced acidity from cherry tomatoes ensured every bite remained exciting.
Dessert was non-negotiable. Torn between the black sesame and fennel ice creams, I followed Ishika’s recommendation and chose the fennel ice cream, pairing it with a chocolate cake. It was the perfect finale. The fennel ice cream was subtle yet aromatic, topped with popping strawberry caviar and resting on a sweet-salty crumble that added texture and contrast. The chocolate cake, meanwhile, was indulgence perfected — gooey, rich, deeply chocolatey, finished with a touch of sea salt that elevated the dessert beyond simple sweetness into something beautifully balanced.
NAVU is undeniably on the pricier side, but it never feels indulgent without purpose. Every element — from the no-garnish drinks to the thoughtful plating and precise flavours — reflects a kitchen confident in its identity. I walked out already planning a return visit, especially to explore their vegetarian offerings.
