Loo Yeo
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First visited in November 2013 — ducking off Strada Nuova into Cannaregio, I found low-beamed comfort, terrazzo underfoot, a counter lined with prosecco and cicchetti. Revived in 2008 after a lull, it felt quietly overlooked by tourists, its name borrowed from Manzoni’s I Promessi Sposi (The Betrothed) — less literature, more shorthand for trust and constancy at the table. That night it was pappardelle with rabbit ragù and Treviso radicchio (9/10) and frittura mista with Rialto fish, crisp polenta, clean and outstanding (9.5/10).
Returning in November 2024, the constancy was intact. Fritto misto remained light and deft (8/10); orecchiette with tomatoes and smoked scallops was smoky and succulent (8.5/10); sea bream fresh from the market, simple and delicious (8/10); spaghetti al nero di seppia packed Adriatic umami with pasta cooked to the second (8.5/10). Even the home-smoked pork ribs, needing a touch more basting, came with excellent potatoes (7/10).
Eleven years apart, Ai Promessi Sposi still proves its name: constancy, quality, and Venetian understatement.