Thanh Ly
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This Ryokan on the Old Nakasendo trail was built in 1818, when the Nakasendo was at its peak. Narai-juku is the largest and best preserved Post Town, and stepping into Narai-juku having traversed the Torii pass, it felt like stepping back in time. Narai-juku marks the mid-point between Tokyo and Kyoto and was a very popular resting point before or after the Torii pass, hence Narai-juku's size and number of Ryokans.
I would very much like to thank Iseda-san and his wife for opening up their family home, so that guests can spend the night just as the travellers did hundreds of years ago during the Edo period. It also marked the end of my 3 day hike along the Nakasendo, and a worthy Ryokan to end my journey. I did indeed spend the day, night and morning resting. It is very quiet in the evenings and in the mornings, that is when Narai is at its most beautiful and serine. Walking around in the evening, alone was stunning. You really feel like you have travelled hundreds of years back into the past. It was absolutely beautiful.
Dinner was a spectacular 14-course Kaiseki meal, every complement was home cooked using seasonal ingredients from the local area. They are all small dishes but together will satiate even the biggest appetite. Breakfast was a 10-course meal. Usually I'm not a huge fan of Ryokan breakfasts because they can be too much, and I don't tend to eat breakfast. This meal was just right in terms of volume and was very delicious.
The only downside is all facilities are shared, toilets and bathrooms are outside your room. There can be a wait to use the hot bath, but once in it's very modern and very relaxing.
I would highly recommend Oyado Iseya if you are planning to stay in Narai-juku.