"Why book?
A Belle Epoque building expansion offers minimalist rooms with views of a plaza in lively Retiro enclave.
The backstory
The onetime headquarters of the army club, Circulo Militar, Palacio Paz is a magnificent Belle Epoque building that is considered one of the best examples of French architecture in
Buenos Aires
. Attached to the 1890s-era building is a newer structure with a similar façade and accommodations that once welcomed visiting army guests. During the pandemic, the structure and army apartments were converted into a boutique hotel with 56 minimalist but comfortable guestrooms that call to mind an Ace Hotel in the Pacific Northwest.
Set the scene
Set across from Plaza San Martin and a short walk from the iconic opera house Teatro Colon, Palacio Paz hotel attracts laidback Gen-Xers and Millennial travelers mostly from the Americas and Europe. Just beyond the check in desk is a restaurant and bar where breakfast is served, and where guests hang out in the afternoon for a glass of wine or cappuccino.
The rooms
Simplicity is the name of the game within the soundproof rooms, which feature herringbone wood floors, a white-on-white palette and just a touch of heather gray in the upholstered sofa or headboard. Some of the bigger rooms might feature an Arne Jacobsen-inspired egg chair, also in gray. Instead of closets, you’ll find free-standing shelving units big enough to store a week’s worth of clothing. Executive rooms offer separate bedroom and working area, which is big enough for a crib or rollaway bed if traveling with a kid.
Food and drink
Set on the ground level, Moby Dick is a cozy little restaurant with an American vibe and a menu that will appeal to most everyone—think avocado toast, burgers and fries, steak or salmon with grilled vegetables, gnocchi, and milanesas, the breaded veal steak that’s beloved by every porteño.
The neighborhood/area
Retiro is one of the oldest neighborhoods of Buenos Aires, known for its historic monuments, art galleries, museums, and upscale shops. Plaza San Martin, right across the street from the hotel, is a lively park with a monument to Argentina’s national hero and liberator. Head to Calle Florida, a pedestrian only shopping street known for souvenirs, fast fashion and leather good stores. For more upscale shopping, visit Galerias Pacifico, a mall with an impressive frescoed dome.
The service
The staff is relaxed and friendly.
Accessibility
Some wheelchair accessible rooms.
Anything left to mention?
Don’t skip a tour of the Palace next door, which also has a restaurant, Croque Madam, with a gorgeous outdoor garden." - Celeste Moure
