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Tucked away in the laid-back Graça neighbourhood, Penalva da Graça is a gem of a seafood spot that delivers the kind of honest, unpretentious Portuguese cooking you’d cross town for — and I’m glad I did.
I started with the clams in garlic (ameijoas à bulhão pato) and the prawns in garlic (gambas à guilho) — simple dishes, but when done right, they’re a thing of beauty. Here, they absolutely nailed it. The clams were fresh and briny, bathed in a garlicky olive oil sauce that begged for bread-dipping. The prawns were plump, juicy, and just spicy enough to wake up the palate. Both starters were generous portions, full of flavour without fuss.
Then came the seafood and rice stew (arroz de marisco) — and it was everything I hoped for. Rich, comforting, and packed with the taste of the sea. It came loaded with clams, large prawns, and tender crab, all mingled in a deeply flavoured tomato-based broth that had clearly been simmered with care. The rice was perfectly cooked, soaking up every drop of that beautiful sauce. It’s rustic, soulful food that doesn’t shout, but lingers in your memory.
Finally, the grilled sardines (sardinhas assadas). Crisp skin, tender flesh, and that unmistakable charcoal flavour that can only come from a proper grill. They were served traditionally with boiled potatoes and a mixed salad — the kind of simple, honest sides that let the sardines shine and round out the dish beautifully.
What made the night even more memorable was the atmosphere — Portugal were playing Spain and had just won. The bar was packed with locals, erupting with cheers and laughter. It felt like stepping into someone’s neighbourhood living room at just the right moment: all heart, no pretence.
Honestly, I’m not sure I should even be telling anyone about this place — it’s the kind of hidden gem you almost want to keep to yourself. It’s not flashy, not trying to be trendy, but it gets everything right where it counts.
The service was warm and unfussy, the kind that makes you feel more like a returning regular than a tourist passing through. If you’re after white tablecloths and overthought plating, look elsewhere. But if you want to eat like a local — good seafood, cooked well, served without pretension — Penalva da Graça is a must.
