Loo Yeo
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Visited July 2012 & September 2013 — Est! Est! Est! (Da Ricci), Rome
Est! Est! Est! is a late-night lifeline near Piazza della Repubblica, often cited as Rome’s oldest pizzeria (1888) and still open until midnight. I first stumbled in after two other places had shut, and what a relief it was. Starters set the tone: crocchette of potato and egg were hearty if under-seasoned (7/10), while the fiori di zucca — crisp batter, perfectly judged mozzarella and anchovy — were a knockout (10/10). On my return visit, I was half-afraid they wouldn’t live up, but lightning struck twice. Still impossibly light for something fried. Still perfect. Another 10/10.
The pizzas are classic tonda romana — thin, crisp, with minimal cornicione. My pizza con prosciutto hit good notes on cheese and ham, though the tomato base lacked depth (7.5/10). A year later, though, pasta hijacked my plan. Tonnarelli in creamy artichoke with salsiccia was fresh and simple; I wanted more seasoning, more artichoke punch, and sausage caramelised properly, but it was solid (7/10).
And the panna cotta alla ricotta ai frutti di bosco? A house specialty, and a personal birthday treat. Sweet and bouncy panna cotta, ricotta’s savoury edge, berry fruits cutting through — blissful. A second straight 10/10.
Est! Est! Est! may not always hit transcendent heights, but when it does — those courgette flowers, that panna cotta — it reminds you why this historic address endures.