Jeffrey S.
Yelp
I stood on the precipice, gazing down at the mighty Colorado River below. There was a faint whisper of the rapids below, and the winter sun of late afternoon was slowly sinking to the west, casting long shadows from the mighty canyon cliffs and covering much of the winding, chocolate river below in dark hues of brown, buff, and muted orange tones.
At that moment, the pot of water on top of my backpacking stove began to boil and I retreated from the edge to turn off the stream of isobutane, remove the water, and mix the hot water with freeze-dried meals for me and my backpacking partner so we could enjoy dinner. A few minutes later we were back on the edge at the guardrail, slowly eating our dinner and letting the hot, salty food warm us from within while the last few moments of sunshine glowed on our faces.
And that was the moment.
That was the moment of complete peace, and direction, and clarity.
Every decision we had made in our lives, up to that point, had led us to this point. Our friendship, our adventurous spirit, our very decision to embark on a trek to the Grand Canyon and every little thing had fallen in place to take us to the edge of Plateau Point where we knew that everything was going to be okay.
I think back often on that moment. It's been a year and a half, but I can still feel the chilly January breeze, and also the absolute peace that accompanied it. We had wandered into the Arizona desert with questions and Plateau Point had spoken to us with answers. The sage and saguaro spoke wisdom to our hearts.
Getting to Plateau Point, in the literal sense, is no small feat. It's down the Bright Angel Trail, emphasis on DOWN. They warn you that going down the Grand Canyon is optional, but going up is not. You must first hike the 4.5 miles (7.25km) to Indian Garden (listed separately here on Yelp) and that includes about 3000ft (915m) in elevation loss. From there, the trail out to Plateau Point is actually remarkably flat, dropping less than 100 feet (30m) on an additional 1.5 miles (2.4km) of trail. At the very edge of Plateau Point, you get to peer over massive cliffs and catch your first view of the River, but it's still about 1300ft (400m) below you. The views are legendary.
If you're planning on this as a day hike, start extremely early in the day, and I wouldn't do it in the dead of summer. Those distances above are one way, so to start at the rim and make it back, you're going a full 12 miles (19.3km) and that's down 3000ft (915m) and back up again. It's brutal, and should only be attempted by seasoned hikers.
If you're going as an overnighter, it's a bit more manageable. You can stay at Indian Garden in the campground (permits required) and drop your pack and go out as a leisurely stroll.
The latter was our plan. That's how we arrived at Plateau Point, in the literal sense. But in the figurative sense we arrived at the overlook by making every decision we had ever made. And if you live the kind of life where every decision you make leads you to a time and place when the sun is setting and you're eating dinner while looking out on the Colorado in this sacred Canyon with a good buddy, then your life is going to be okay.
Now, I don't know where life will take me next. I don't know what trail is ahead of me. Sometimes I think I see what may be on the trail, sometimes I wish beyond anything I've wished for before just to lace up my shoes and head off on an adventure, only to be held back alone at the trailhead. But I know no matter what, I was once at the edge of Plateau Point and everything was okay, and everything can be okay again.