Bradley N.
Yelp
Ten Easy Steps™
Vol. 3: Lighthouses
No. 1: Point Sur Light Station, Big Sur, CA
I think that anyone who has lived (make that "survived") one full year in the state of California should be invited to the governor's office in Sacramento and one of the staff should hand them a golden-colored bucket, and in that bucket, there should be a list of things to do in the next few years of their residency to make them truly Californian in outlook, rather than just another transplant from somewhere else. Of course, there will be places like Yosemite and Death Valley, the Golden Gate Bridge and Muir Woods and a Spanish mission or two, but there also should be a section devoted to the lighthouses of the California coast, especially its northern, rocky, rugged places, like Point Arena or Point Reyes.
And of all the lighthouses on that list, the one atop that big rock in Big Sur has just GOT to be there right at the start. If you don't leave a 3-hour tour here (just make sure your tour guide isn't named Gilligan) feeling a little more Californian and a little less of whatever you were before you got here, I would be shocked. Shocked! There is just so much history here - natural and human - to love. And be slightly scared about. And that, in a nutshell, is what feeling Californian is all about: a little scared about the place, but in love with it, nonetheless.
So, how to make your next road trip to Big Sur one truly to remember? Sounds like another job for the Ten Easy Steps™ !
1. Wake up early. You will need to in order to arrive at the locked gate before the docent pulls up in his car, usually about 9:45 or 9:50am, to let you into the grounds. Cars line up in single file at a narrow dirt pullout right next to the locked gate. This happens Saturdays and Sundays at 10am unless the highway is closed due to a landslide or flooding, and some Wednesdays at 1 pm.
2. Check out the Central Coast Lighthouse Keepers web site well ahead of time to plan for your visit. There is a great deal of useful information here that ensures you won't arrive at the wrong date or time: http://www.pointsur.org/
3. Bring hat, gloves, and wind-proof clothing! And if you bring a hat, make sure it stays on your head even in 50 mph wind gusts. It may not be windy on the highway, but at some point on the walk up to the lighthouse, you will feel the power of the Pacific, and it ain't gonna be pretty if you came dressed for the beach.
4. Take a small backpack with water, snacks, and other supplies (lip balm, sunscreen, extra hat and gloves, binoculars, sun glasses, etc.) The tour lasts 3 hours, you know, and only at the end do you reach the visitor center, where $1 hot drinks and free water is available. Otherwise, you'll have to suffer in silence.
5. Don't fill up on 22 oz. lattes before the tour! There are 2 outdoor stalls at the parking area, then several additional ones at the top, near the stone residence buildings. The restroom facilities are clean and well maintained - pretty fancy as far as PTs (portable toilets) go - but I just don't think you want to worry about such things when perched 300 feet above a surging, foaming, wave-crashing ocean, now do you?
6. Bring binoculars. You never know when a whale might swim by, or if something cool is happening on the ocean, or if you want to get a little bit closer to the action on highway one. What? No binoculars? Perhaps a trip to Cabela's is in order before you go ...
7. Wear actual hiking shoes. Yes, the trail is paved, but being out in the ocean like it is, the place gets pretty banged up. Lots of little rocks tumble down in an ongoing process of erosion, and - haven't you heard - California is on a major geological faultline, and that's abundantly clear when you look at the Santa Lucia mountains from Point Sur station. Also, you will be climbing metal stairs to reach the lighthouse's inner core, where the fresnel lens was and where its replacement currently resides, and you don't want to wear the Manolos in case the heels get stuck in the tread.
8. Save energy for the best part of the tour - no, not the ocean vistas and cool historic stuff in the lighthouse and carpentry/blacksmith shop. I'm talking about the gorgeously restored Lighthouse Keeper's house, which you visit near the end of the tour. It's done up as a 1950's nuclear family idyll, replete with rooms for the kids, a well-stocked kitchen, a laundry room, a study, a bathroom, and bedrooms to match. There is a lot of museum-quality stuff lying all around, provided by the amazing Lighthouse Keeper volunteers using money raised by local philanthropists (you know, people like ... um, Clint). While some sections are roped off, most are open for you to explore. How cool is that?
9. Bring the kids! If you have them, of course. This is definitely kid friendly adventuring, and who is going to be more Californian than them?
10. Take time to enjoy the view. It is unforgettable!