Hannah E.
Yelp
For my birthday dinner, I ate in a way I've never eaten before: 14 tiny courses, presented and described by our own personal waitress, except for one, which was presented by the chef at a bar, who was shocked that the filling of his stuffed squash flower didn't explode all over my face. I guess I'm getting ahead of myself.
I couldn't get a table at Quintonil, so I got one here - full disclosure, I thought Lorea would be a little showy for me. Maybe too much emphasis on being fancy and not enough on the taste of the food. Luckily, I was wrong. While there were hits and misses, there weren't any dishes that were lazy or even any that were just pretty but lacking substance. Each one had obviously had some thought put into it.
Overall, I felt that Lorea's chefs were playing a lot with texture. The flavors were good, and showcased the freshness of their ingredients, but texture was king. Usually, the textural experiments worked, as in the mint/pistachio slick and gummy mochi, the crisp and rough softshell crab crusted in buckwheat, the light and airy fried cheese wrapped around creamy avocado and crunchy sprouts, and the aged cheese soup with dehydrated artichoke slowly rehydrating itself in the soup. Some didn't, as in the honeycomb in the frozen yogurt and arbequina dessert, which gave off a taste of honey and then just sort of hung out in my mouth like one of those wax straws you get in 90's candy.
The aforementioned aged cheese and artichoke soup, which was (surprisingly) my favorite dish of the night, wasn't the only dish to marry flavors strangely but expertly. The huitlacoche (served on a cob - I'd only had it black-sauced in quesadillas) was paired with genmaicha (Japanese roasted rice green tea) which set its nuttiness off perfectly. The stuffed chile de agua was served with a 'chaser' of tomato juice topped with charred and powdered tortilla, just in case the pepper was too spicy. It wasn't, and I don't like tomato juice, but I have to admit I liked the effect.
There were also a few swings and misses with flavors, like the pickled beef over chilacayote, which was like spam musubi with a zucchini in place of the rice, and digestive consomme, which was like someone distilled pho broth and put it in a teacup.
One of the best dishes of the night, and unfortunately served towards the end when I was already getting full, was a perfectly rare-side-of-medium-rare cut of lamb, covered with a big grilled mushroom like a floppy hat. This was not experimental at all, and still stood up.
Towards the end of the meal, we were invited back to the bar for a crash course in the history of squash flowers, then each given a tempura-ed flower filled with something creamy to kick back in one bite. My mouth is small, so I bit it in half, which is exactly what the chef told me not to do because my face would end up covered in cream. However, I have a lifetime of experience hiding from sushi chefs while surreptitiously biting their impeccably prepared nigiri in half, so I managed to stay clean!